Parrotlet Periodical- issue #16, June/July '24 |
|
|
Tips and tricks for your flying family member! |
|
|
Bonding/Re-bonding with your parrotlet |
|
|
Sometimes in the course of our relationship with our parrotlet, we need a reset to rekindle and promote the type of companionship that we crave with our tiny, yet mighty, companion pet. There are a lot of reasons why the bonding relationship may not develop initially, or wane as time passes. Things like work schedules, a busy life, traveling, etc., can all serve to weaken a bond with a companion pet. In considering the strategies that I use to promote bonding with my chicks early on in their development, I thought I might pass along some techniques that I have found helpful. Clip the wings - There is a definite connection between the ability for your parrotlet to control the air of your home and the amount that they will choose to interact with you. I have always been familiar with the proclamation, "You need your wings clipped". Probably a saying that I heard quite often as a teenager when I got a little big for my britches. I did not fully understand the weight of this statement until I witnessed first hand the almost immediate "attitude adjustment" provided in a parrotlet's behavior after a wing clipping. This humbling of your feathered friend provides a chance for you to establish a more positive relationship with your pet. Not to worry, the flight feathers will regrow, but in the mean time, it provides an opportunity to rekindle a deeper connection that is promoted by close physical interactions between you and your pet. I have provided the link to my favorite wing clipping video below. Handle with an open hand - Wing clipping provides the opportunity for you to actually interact physically with your pet. An appropriate wing clipping will allow your parrotlet to glide to the ground without being able to get loft. One important consideration in retrieving your pet from the floor, or other low and accessible location, is to approach your pet in a non-threatening manner. Whether your pet knows, or possibly has forgotten, the "step up" command, I suggest offering an open hand (palm up) as a platform on which your bird can step up. You can then immediately move your hand to your shoulder for your pet to transfer to this more secure vantage point. Your shoulder provides a close physical proximity between the two of you while giving him/her a top down view that is more appealing to them. Don't forget that your parrotlet will probably use their beak as a tool for stepping up. Not a bite, but just a device for steadying themselves. Suffice it to say, sometimes you may get an actual bite, but gently rocking your hand back and forth will put a stop to this. When a bird has to steady themselves, as in this hand rocking motion, it refocuses their attention. I firmly say, "No bite" as I am rocking my hand. Parrotlets absolutely hate not being balanced so they quickly learn to avoid the behavior that prompted such negative results. This strategy for discouraging biting reminds me of refocusing a toddler when they are sliding into "tantrum" mode. Any experienced parent will tell you that distraction is the best device to avoid unwanted behaviors in toddlers. It also happens to be worth it's weight in gold with parrotlets too! Temporarily use a smaller cage - When I move my babies from the nest to their first cage, I select a cage that is still pretty small. Mine measures approximately 16" long x 12" tall x 12" deep. The benefit of using a small cage temporarily is that your parrotlet is more likely to want to leave this small enclosure without you having to chase them around the cage. Once out of their cage, you can retrieve them and place them on your shoulder without the ill effects of physically retrieving them from the cage. If you do need to place your hand in the cage to gently guide your pet out, I suggest covering your hand with a dish towel or something similar so that they do not develop a negative association with your hand. This covering for your hand provides a buffer so that they do not perceive your hand as a threat. My usual advice concerning cage size is "bigger is better" but temporarily using a small cage to promote bonding is an effective tool to get good results. One additional tip when coaxing your pet to leave the cage is to provide a perch of some kind to make it easy for them to step out. I always give the additional enticement of having a piece of millet, fastened with a bread tie to the perch, as an immediate reward when they choose to leave the safety of their cage. Providing a small enclosed area for training - One of my strategies for training chicks is the use of a small, enclosed area from which they are not tempted to leave. When my daughters were young and had hamsters, one of our best ways to acquaint the new pet with human scent and physical interaction was to use a bathtub. I would have my girls sit in a bathtub while handling their new hamster. This way the hamster could run all around, and over, my girls without escaping. This facilitated a safe and quick way for my daughters to bond with their little fuzzy friends. I think this same strategy has worked well for me when handling my chicks. I have a small hallway where there are walls on two sides and a door that I can close in front. I position myself on the floor so that I physically block the only real escape route. This location provides me with a small area where my birds are not distracted nor tempted to fly off. If they do initially fly off, it is quite easy to retrieve them and begin our training again. This is where I usually begin teaching them how to "step up" and in general promote their being at ease with a human physical presence. Time of day / area lighting Believe it or not, the time of day and the lighting in the training area does make a difference. In my experience, later in the day is a time when your parrotlet will be calmer and more accepting of interaction. My preferred time of day is evening when the light outside starts to dim. This is when birds are settling down and are not as energetic. Along with this, another important factor is the lighting of the room where you are interacting with your p'let. I like to keep the lighting around the perimeter of the room either off, or very dimly lit. I do keep a light on that shines primarily in the area where I am sitting. Birds are very hesitant to fly off into darkened areas. This natural aversion to darkness allows you to encourage your pet to stay with you in the well lit area without having to physically restrain them in any way.
|
|
|
Parrotlet (parrot) vision - the "eyes" have it |
|
|
Parrotlets have vision with some very specific advantages. Parrots in general have anywhere from 2 to 8 times the visual acuity of other mammals, including humans. They can see a wider range of colors and can better distinguish subtleties in both form and color than humans can see. Parrots have monocular vision, a type of vision that allows their eyes on the sides of their head to see different things. This monocular vision allows them to scan very large areas on either side of their head. I have often been asked as to whether to leave a tv or radio on for a pet parrotlet. My answer is "Yes!", for a couple of reasons. Although your pet will not visually interpret the tv images as you do, it does provide stimulation for these very intelligent creatures. Additionally, the sound provided by either a tv or radio mimics the usually noisy environment in their natural habitat. Parrots can be alarmed by total quiet since that can indicate that a predator is lurking about. |
|
A few additional details: parrotlets (parrots) can see red, green, blue, and ultraviolet light. Humans can not see UVA light. parrots collect and interpret visual images much faster than humans. a parrot's sense of smell is not as acute and advanced as their vision. parrots do not see well in dim light. parrot vision has a range of approximately 300 degrees as compared to human range of approximately 180 degrees. when providing lighting for your pet, be sure that the light itself is positioned above the cage. Lighting from the side can be damaging to bird eyesight. Do make sure that your parrotlet can get out of the direct light by providing shaded areas, much like the tree canopy provides them in the wild. Best rule of thumb for any environmental factor is that mimicking the natural habitat of your pet usually serves them best!
|
|
|
Pictured above are four babies that are currently weaning and will be available in a couple of weeks. These chicks are hand tamed and will make wonderful additions to any loving home. Contact me for additional pictures and information. |
|
|
Don't forget to check out our previous newsletters for information and resources... |
|
|
As always, I invite your comments and questions. Best regards, Carla | | |
|
|
***All links contained within this newsletter are provided for informational purposes only. No compensation is received for providing these links. |
|
|
|
|
