The Curator - November 2022 - Issue # 3 |
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Journey to Puebla Fantasma Real de Catorce, Dec 2018 |
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NUIYA Wixarika Verb for "To Arrive" |
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The veil between the living and the dead has descended, as winter leaves continue to fall, and cooler weather attracts snowbirds from the north for southern respite. Monarch wings are on the wind for their major migration south for winter, and we will soon be embarking on some journeys of our own, to visit them. Thank you to all of our wonderful hosts and guests who made Dia de Muertos yet another enchanting experience. I would love it if you could please send me your favourite photos from our experience this year, as I will add them to our photo gallery page on the website, for all to share. You may notice this edition is shorter than usual, which is due to a terrible injury I sustained the day of our Catrina party! With 62 guests about to arrive, alongside musicians, a surprise theatre company and Mariachi band, and two full days of touring, landing on my face after 3 feet of airtime wasn't exactly how I planned to start Dia de Muertos 2022! Following our tour, I crashed for a long spell, for respite and much needed healing for a painful concussion. It was difficult to contemplate writing, or editing photographs, as the computer-work resulted in many splitting headaches - so I promise to catch everyone up on our fantastic Dia de Muertos experience in our December newsletter, along with the other articles that are part of our new format. I am now in the midst of tweaking some of our Spring offerings, and getting ready for some favourite annual adventures. I truly hope you may join us for a trip or two, and am ready to answer any questions you may have about our tours. Wishing you all a wonderful up-coming American Thanksgiving and start to our next festive season! - Jennifer Bjarnason - Proprietress |
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HOPE FOR THE MONARCHS WITH DR. PABLO JARAMILLO LOPEZ START AGAIN THIS JANUARY! For private tours, please contact Jennifer directly. We have an experience in Morelia, starting on February 1, and one more tentative tour in the works from San Miguel de Allende for January 20. We are also very excited to be working with David Blink on some of our tours this winter, so guests can learn about his intriguing and important projects in the Monarch Reserves, and the work that he and Dr. Jaramillo have been collaborating on!
Contact Jennifer at thecuratorinmexico@gmail.com or through Whatsapp: +52 443 639 2782 |
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Rob McKay & David Blink Sierra Chincua Reserve, Jan 2020 |
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IN THIS EDITION The P'urepecha Plateau to the Wintering Home of the Monarch Experience Art & Nature in Mexico La Puerta del Camino Real Exploring Mexico's Iconic Silver Road Feature Artist Sandra Servin Mezcaleria San Miguel in Patzcuaro Special Mezcal Release on Sunday November 20, 2022 Island of Creepy Dolls A Trajinera to a Mysterious Chinampa 4th Annual La Fiesta de Catrinas Clandestina Our Secret Location Revealed |
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UEKANI P'urepecha Word for "Beloved" |
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Exquisite Rebozos from Michoacan September 2021 - Paracho |
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FROM THE P'UREPECHA PLATEAU TO THE MOUNTAINS OF THE MONARCH BUTTERFLY: EXPERIENCE ART & NATURE IN MEXICO |
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This February 10-19, 2023, join Biologist Trecia Neal with Green Gardens Education and Designs, and Soul of Mexico Tours for an amazing travelling experience from the cultural plateaus of Michoacan to the pristine mountains where monarchs migrate thousands of miles from Canada to spend the winter. Our tour departs Guadalajara City for the small P'urepecha villages of San Jose de Gracia, Ocumicho and Patamban, each with their own unique style and approach to ceramics. We will explore the Cupatitzio National Park in Uruapan, and find ourselves bedazzled by gorgeous handicrafts in Paracho's plaza, feasting on lamb tacos in the local market, and learning about the women's resistance in the small town of Cheran. After time in Patzcuaro, our Valentine's celebration is scheduled at Cielo Cocina Fusion in Morelia, before embarking on a 3 day pilgrimage to Mexico's most important Monarch colonies. Unwind in the evenings at the rustic yet luxurious Rancho San Cayetano, and depart from Mexico City after an afternoon of tranquility, floating through the canals of Xochimilco to the Island of Creepy Dolls, which is on National Geographic'S list of 25 creepiest places on earth! To learn more about Trecia Neal and this tour, please visit our website by clicking on the link below. Our tour will be led by Jaime Hernandez of Patzcuaro, and Gerardo Chavez of Morelia, includes a special lecture with Trecia Neal in Patzcuaro, which is open to the public, and a special tour in El Rosario with local guide Estella Romary. This is an educational tour that covers the best of what Michoacan has on offer! |
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Biologist Trecia Neal with Jimmy & Rosalynn Carter |
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NECUILTONOLOYA Nahuatl Phrase for "Land of Wealth" |
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LA PUERTA DEL CAMINO REAL: EXPLORING MEXICO'S ICONIC SILVER ROAD |
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Wealth is generally understood as a monetary concept that allows us luxury and beautiful things, and since post-egalitarian times, human beings have always strived to obtain it. This was no different for indigenous cultures of the world, who fought to establish and secure territories, and who built impressive trade networks that connected territories, whether villages or extensive empires. One such trade route was established through Central Mexico by ancient cultures, for the trade of obsidian, turquoise, salt, feathers and other commodities of value. Protected by UNESCO as "El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro," this pre-Hispanic route is more famed today as Mexico's Silver Road, an intercontinental route that connected the world through the ports of Veracruz and Acapulco - a route that not only transformed cuisine around the world, but also brought exotic fruits, vegetables, spices and influences to Mexico, from other places. Italian cuisine is an obvious example of this influence, as the cuisine that is so famed for tomatoes, only first procured them after contact with Mexico. Tamarind, a local Mexican favourite, came here from India, along with mangos. Talavera went through major transformations after arriving in Mexico from Spain, and again after Chinese ceramics arrived with the Manila Galleons, through Acapulco. These are some of the concepts we will explore on our journey, along with the indigenous influences behind this intriguing area and history. If you love trade history, and would like to learn more about this fantastic route, that was originally carved out beneath the feet of indigenous warriors and merchants, join us this March 2023 for a 13 night/14 day exploration with Jaime Hernandez Balderas and Soul of Mexico Tours. We are excited to offer this unique itinerary as Part 1 for this region, and look forward to hosting you! Please contact Jennifer at +52 443 39 2782 or thecuratorinmexico@gmail.com |
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SIRIKUNI P'urepecha Verb for "To Sew" |
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FEATURE ARTIST SANDRA SERVIN |
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Born on May 26, 1978 to Josefina Servin Barriga and Feyecido Lopez, Sandra Lopez Servin was born in Patzcuaro, and raised in Santa Cruz, which is in the municipality of Tzintzuntzan. Raised with her great aunts and many cousins, Sandra was taught by her aunty Berta Servin Barriga, who she also considers her second mom. Being trained by such a maestra, Sandra has always been determined to create fine pieces with the precision and detail so many of us value in her and Berta's mesmerizing workmanship. |
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Sandra began embroidering when she was 12 years old, and has already had a wonderful career for more than 32 years. Having won more than 15 awards, and started her own shop, Sandra has received several recognitions as a master craftswoman. Sandra was especially proud when she was granted a Reconocimiento during Dia de Muertos 2018, as this is very difficult to achieve during such a grand competition. Some of the details that differentiate Sandra's exquisite works include the detailing on the clothing of her characters. While many artists may embroider a woman in a dress with a white apron, Sandra's dresses will have fringes and other details, and her aprons may also have another colour threaded into the piece somehow. Even clothes that are hanging on laundry lines are detailed and colourful, rather than comprised of solid colours without extra decoration. Her tapestries of the fishermen may include three vessels, but all of the nets will be at different stages of the catch, with some being raised up high, others in butterfly format, and one being gathered by the captain of the boat. This special focus on bringing a scene to life is very special, and certainly one of the reasons her pieces fetch higher prices, and win so many awards. |
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Sandra's eldest daughter, Paola Reyes Lopez, is also a beautiful embroidery artist, though as she is often studying for school, she doesn't embroider full-time. Sandra's youngest daughter Karla Reyes Lopez is still learning to master the art of bordados, but enjoys stitching. After hearing so many wonderful things about her, and helping clients procure some of Sandra's pieces, we first finally met Sandra in person in 2020, during the Pandemic. Her cubre-bocas were incredibly designed, and so beautifully embroidered, we purchased 40 of them to start, and have been ordering them since! Sandra created 32 cubre bocas with Dia de Muertos themes for our guests last year, and this year created 36 tea towels featuring Janitzio Island with a marigold altar, and butterfly fishermen in their boats. The precision, detail and consistency was incredible, and she is so professional to work with. We were also really pleased with some small-sized Tapestries she created for a trip we took with friends last summer, as she created 4 lovely pieces for all of us, with special attention to the colour of our clothing, my red hair, and the little dog that followed our guide Jaime Hernandez Balderas, all the way to the church ruins, and back. It is always such a pleasure to work with someone who is so dedicated to quality and who is engaging, enthusiastic and passionate about the pieces she produces. We highly recommend working with this artist, for art collection, fashionable wardrobe pieces and custom orders.
We truly look forward to procuring more of her work in future! If you would like more information on her work, please contact Jennifer at thecuratorinmexico@gmail.com |
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Sandra Lopez Servin, Berta Servin Barriga, Karla Reyes Lopez & Paola Reyes Lopez |
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LIMITADO Spanish word for "limited" |
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MEZCALERIA SAN MIGUEL IN PATZCUARO SPECIAL MEZCAL RELEASE SUNDAY NOVEMBER 20, 2022 |
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Sisters are certainly worth more than their weight in gold! More than three years ago, Mezcaleria San Miguel owner Omar Alejandre Reyes looked to the abundance of fresh nuts growing on his sisters walnut tree at her home in El Cristo, Patzcuaro, which was their childhood neighborhood, and the notion came to mind, that Mezcal might be really special, with a walnut infusion. On June 24, 2019, Omar harvested and crushed dozens upon dozens of walnuts into a garaffon of his own Cupreata Mezcal, which was grown and produced in Michoacan. His original intention was to age the mezcal until December 24th of that year. When December came, Omar's patience got the better of him, and he decided to keep aging the spirit, watching as the color deepened into a gorgeous gem-like tone. The other night, I was fortunate to be working with Omar on a special project, when he decided it was time to share his nutty experiment with another fellow mezcal aficionado. What a delightful treat! I still cannot put my finger on what it reminds me of, from my childhood samplings from my parents special-occasion beverages, but I knew right away that the "nuez" he had used, was walnut. Robust and rich, nutty, a touch sweet, and delicate come to mind, and at 42% alcohol content, this is a special dessert aperitif and wonderful compliment to have with rice pudding, cheese cake, Christmas pudding, drizzled over vanilla ice cream, or even on its own with a handful of candied walnuts. (Vanilla ice cream, candied walnuts and walnut mezcal in one bowl sounds like heaven). I'm sure any foodies out there, will have lots of delectable ideas for this lovely and limited mezcal. Mezcaleria San Miguel is releasing this limited edition of mezcal this Sunday, November 20, 2022. Available in 1/4 Litre bottles for $350 MXN or 1/2 Litre bottles for $700 MXN, this special treat is just on time for American Thanksgiving and Christmas! Diose and I are making candied walnuts this weekend, for anyone who has some dessert ideas for the upcoming season (price TBA). If you aren't going to be here on Sunday, but would like to reserve a bottle, please contact me for more information. We can reserve your order for a later pick-up date! |
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SINIESTRO Spanish word for "Creepy" |
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THE ISLAND OF CREEPY DOLLS A TRAJINERA TO A MYSTERIOUS CHINAMPA |
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Drifting through the maze of Xochimilco’s canals is the small and haunted chinampa of Laguna de Teshuilo, famously known as Isla de las Munecas or The Island of Creepy Dolls. Listed as one of the world’s 25 most creepiest places by National Geographic, the eeriness of visiting these haunted dolls is amplified by visiting during sunset hours. The tragic history behind this collection of dolls began with a young girl who drowned here. The caretaker of the island, Don Julian Santana Barrera, was forever grieved after finding this young child, for not only was he unable to save her, he began to fear her spirit was haunting the island. |
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The original doll is enshrined inside the small cabin |
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A doll that was floating in the canal surfaced near the location where the little girl had drowned. Convinced it must have belonged to the little girl, Don Julian placed the doll in a tree, to show respect to the little girl. Sadly, Don Julian began suffering from a deep rooted belief that the little girls spirit was haunting the island – and his belief in the paranormal resulted in more and more dolls suspended in trees and nailed to buildings, as offerings to appease the little girl. There is some speculation that Don Julian was overwhelmed with guilt for not being able to save her life, in conjunction with possible onset of a mental illness made worse due to the majority of his time spent in isolation. Whatever the case, the island is now a shrine of ghostly dolls whose eyes will follow you, as you wander about the island. Guests have reported hearing the dolls whisper, while others bring their own dolls from childhood to leave as an offering to both the little girl, and the spirit of Don Julian, who died on the island in 2001. |
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Due to popularity of this intriguing island and apparent haunting of Don Julian, a myth was fabricated that Don Julian was found drowned, in the same location where the little girl had died. Though it may be dramatic and tragic to romanticize about such a fate, in reality, it simply isn’t true. Visiting Isla de las Munecas is a popular activity for visitors to Xochimilco, though one most visitors to the canals never embark on, due to the distance from the nearest embarcadero. When you tour with us from Mexico City, contact us ahead of time if you would like to visit this eerie and mythical place. We will provide a lovely picnic, for a tranquil trajinera ride to the haunted island of Don Julian. |
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MICTECACIHUATL Aztec Goddess of Death |
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4th ANNUAL FIESTA DE CATRINAS CLANDESTINA OUR SECRET LOCATION REVEALED |
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We would like to thank everyone who attended our 4th Annual Fiesta de Catrinas Clandestina this year, and made it a truly memorable and enchanting party. Located at the magical Hacienda Porumbo, in the municipality of Pichataro, we were thrilled to have 62 guests this year! Our guests arrived to a delicious Jamaica-Orange Mezcal Cocktail by Omar Alejandre Reyes of Patzcuaro's Mezcaleria San Miguel, artisan beers by Aldo and Bruno Palavicini of Patzcuaro's Cerveceria Maestra, and lovey wines by Luis Garcia of Baha's Vinicola Fundamento. The beverages were all fantastic quality and refreshing - a huge thanks to all of you for joining us! |
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Our amazing menu by Samantha Lopez of Santo Huacal included 5 courses, starting with the Roasted Pumpkin Seed Panna Cotta and Chile Crumble, a Pumpkin Soup with Cacao Cream, Scallions and Croutons, an Arugula and Pear Salad with Caramelized Pecans and Lemon Dressing, a choice of Turkey Breast with Marigold Mole or Street Corn Lasagna, and finally a Tangerine and Almond Cake with Ginger and Cardamom Merangue and Basil Ice Cream. That marigold mole was rare and divine, with just a hint of sweetness and a full, rich flavour. Thank you to Samantha and staff for all of your hard work - with special thanks to Miguel, Roby and Dany and for helping me set-up the tables and decor while nursing such a terrible injury! |
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Tomas of Hacienda Porumbo and Omar of Mezaleria San Miguel connected us with some fantastic make-up artists, who came to get enthusiastic guests ready for the big night! A huge thanks to Laura, for taking a chance on me - and braving the challenge of transforming me from my injury, and into a beautiful Catrina! Your gentleness and care was heartfelt, and you truly made me feel able to face my guests with dignity! We also want to thank Galy Guitierrez and Jaime Hernandez Balderas for assisting guests with the buses, and to the drivers for getting everyone home at the end of the night. A party like this could only be this great, when all of the moving parts of a team work together! Everyone truly did an outstanding job!!
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Chris Sanchez Blues Band is always a popular band for a party, and our guests were surprised when Habitantes de las Alturas arrived to shock us with their acrobatics and other theatrical treats! We have noted that our set-up was difficult for many guests to enjoy this performance, and are working to rectify this for our 5th Annual Party next year (which is already scheduled for Saturday, October 28 2023). And finally - at 10 PM, our last big surprise for the evening arrived in the form of a fabulous Mariachi Band - thanks to Jaime Hernandez Balderas for the contact.
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Some photos from our magical night! If you were in attendance, and have any photos or video from this event, please email them to thecuratorinmexico@gmail.com so we can add them to our online photo gallery, for all to share! |
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Did you miss our last issue? Our link here will take you there! |
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