The Curator - October 2023 - Issue ·11 |
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It´s that time of year..... |
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“For what is it to die but to stand naked in the wind and to melt into the sun? And when the earth shall claim your limbs, then shall you truly dance.” - Kahlil Gibran |
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Fun-loving guests dancing at our 1st Catrina Party in Morelia, 2018 |
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WHEN THE VEIL BETWEEN THE LIVING AND THE DEAD IS THINNEST |
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Our Ancestors Come to Visit Us |
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When the leaves start falling and winter whispers our name, we find ourselves on the threshold of a changing season. The delicate veil between autumn and winter marks a powerful time – the harvests are complete, the flowers retreat, and nature begins its surrender for the long respite ahead. Observing nature in this state, hovering between life and death, is a moment of wisdom, reflection, and remembrance. It is inherent in our nature to yearn for family when our matriarchs and patriarchs depart, making this seasonal cusp an especially auspicious time to honor our departed loved ones. We are always excited when Dia de Muertos arrives, as every year brings a new experience in the Lake Patzcuaro region. This issue is a short synopsis of our tour program this year, so though it seems long, the articles are all very short. Please contact us if you are interested in joining our events or tours during this bewitching time of year - and have a safe and meaningful Dia de Muertos. Warm Wishes,
Jennifer Bjarnason Proprietor PS: My apologies for typos - my keyboard is currently missing the M key, so I may have missed a few M`s along the way! |
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Preparations for Dia de Muertos are a lot of work! |
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5TH ANNUAL LA FIESTA DE LAS CATRINAS A Feast with the Dead LAKE PATZCUARO TOUR October 29, 2023 PREPARING A TRADITIONAL MARIGOLD ALTAR October 30, 2023 JANITZIO ISLAND DAY TOUR October 31, 2023 ALTAR GATHERING October 31, 2023 VIGIL DE LOS ANGELITOS October 31, 2023 PROCESSION OF ALTARS November 1, 2023 JOURNEY OF REMEMBERING November 1, 2023 SUNRISE TOUR November 2, 2023 |
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“Life is a Party. Dress for it. ” - Audrey Hepburn |
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Special mother and son moment - Hacienda Porumbo 2022 |
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LA FIESTA DE LAS CATRINAS |
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A Quirky Feast with the Dead |
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Please join us for our 5th Annual Fiesta de las Catrinas on Oct 28, 2023 from 7-Midnight at Verde Limone Restaurant in Patzcuaro, Michoacan Mexico!
Our whimsical party comes complete with make-up artists on location to transform you fro the living to the dead. We will enjoy live music by the incredible Gypswing, a 4 piece Jazz Quartet with guest vocalist Yaya Ferso, guitarists David Rojas & Gabriel Morelos and Flute wizard Ulises Sanchez. This professional group has a plethora of genres between them, and are ready to put on a magical show. Our party is to promote local artists, musicians and producers. The ticket price os $1000 MXN includes a welcome mezcal cocktail, an elegant and flavourful four course menu featuring rosemary chicken cooked in a wood-burning oven, a chance to win one of 3 locally made door prizes, and live music. This is truly an enchanting party made even merrier with enthusiastic guests who love quirky and playful creativity. Cash bar by Omar Alejandre of El Generalisimo (Mezcaleria San Miguel), Aldo & Bruno Palavicini of Cerveceria Maestra, and Luis Garcia of Fundamento Vinicola. Please Note: The restaurant also has a vegetarian option available, so please contact us directly to book your dinner. |
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VIP`s (aka my parents!) - Hacienda Porumbo |
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LIVE ENTERTAINMENT BY GYPSWING AKA YA-JAZZ QUARTET |
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YAYA FERSO Yaya Ferso is an artist from Ixhuacan, who resides in the city of Xalapa, Veracruz. She began her musical studies in the children's and youth orchestra of SEV (Veracruz State Education System), and later became a member of the Latin Veracruz Big Band, where she played the cello and sang. In 2018, she joined jazz studies programs and is currently finishing her degree in jazz vocal studies. She has performed on stages dedicated to Son Jarocho, jazz, Latin American music, and other genres, as well as protest music. She has taken her musical project "La Yaya Sol" to various states of the country, including Puebla, Oaxaca, Mexico City, San Luis Potosí, Michoacán, and Querétaro, bringing her music to multidisciplinary stages that include dance, theater, and poetry. She also conducts workshops on using the voice as an instrument and somatic movement. |
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ULISES SANCHEZ Born in Uruapan, Michoacán, Ulises began his musical studies as a self-taught electric guitar player in alternative rock bands. Later on, he joined the CECAM (Center for Musical Training in Tingambato), where he studied classical guitar and transverse flute. In 2008, Ulises enrolled in the intensive courses at the Conservatorio de las Rosas in Morelia. Ulises has collaborated with various ensembles, ranging from classical music to rock, jazz, gypsy jazz, Veracruz song, jazz fusion, and Cuban song. Some of these include Adicción Rock, Auandarhu, the Guitar Ensemble of CECAM, Saúl Martínez Jazz Project, Venus Big Band, Un Show Menos, among others. Ulises has performed at festivals such as the Autumn Jazz Festival in Pátzcuaro, the International Barranca Fest, Cantoya Fest Pátzcuaro, as well as other cultural venues in the state.
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DAVID ROJAS Born in Mexico City, David began playing the guitar as a self-taught musician at the age of twelve before later taking lessons from private instructors. In 2016, he began studying at the Casa de la Cultura in Morelia under the guidance of Maestro Patrick Parolla. David has collaborated with ensembles in rockabilly, rock, and gypsy jazz, such as Dust Fingers, Gypswing, Vector, Saúl Martínez Jazz Project, Hot Club Aguacate, and others. David has performed at festivals like the Tepoztlán Gypsy Jazz Festival and the Morelia Gypsy Jazz Festival.
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GABRIEL MORELOS Gabriel Morelos was born in Puerto Vallarta, in the state of Jalisco. At the age of fifteen, he began taking lessons with Franco Lugo Monreal, Miguel Ángel Castellanos, Daniel Madrid, among others. Gabriel has been involved in various musical groups such as Dust Fingers, Saúl Martínez Jazz Project, and metal bands, performing at various venues and festivals within the state.
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ACCESSORIES BY MARTHA ZERTUCHE |
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These beautiful pieces will be available at our party |
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Every Catrina deserves a Crown, and local artist Martha Zertuche has beautiful pieces for you, from coronas to sombreros, and even bride and groom pieces! Please contact us ahead of time if you would like to see her collection ahead of time, for best selection. Martha will be joining us at La Fiesta de las Catrinas as a dinner guest, and also to sell her fantastical, comedic and brilliant accessories. PRICE IS $1000 MXN |
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Lovely guest getting transformed into a Catrina at our 2022 party |
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“I will dance and resist and dance and persist and dance. This heartbeat is louder than death.” - Suheir Hammad |
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Catrina Dolls by Juan Torres in Capula |
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This morning we head out on a wonderful tour, starting with the embroidery studio of Teofila Servin. We will then head to the small village of Capula to visit the art studio of Juan Torres, and the Catrina art market in the village centre, which is set up during Dia de Muertos each year. Down the road we will have lunch at a local favourite in Quiroga called Los Molcajetes. We will head around the quiet side of the lake to taste mezcal and enjoy a stellar view of the lake. Our last stop will be at the intriguing Temple of Santa Muerte. This tour has been organized for someone who visits our area regularly, and wanted to return to Capula and visit some places she hasn`t been. If this is your first time here, please contact us if you would like a custom tour, so we can organize it based on your interests. We still have room if you would like to join this tour! PRICES ARE BASED ON COST SHARING. PLEASE CONTACT US FOR MORE INFORMATION |
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Los Molcajetes in Quiroga is a local favourite |
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“Preparing for death is one of the most empowering things you can do. Thinking about death clarifies your life” - Candy Chang |
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Marigolds and other flowers at the market - Patzcuaro 2022 |
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PREPARING A TRADITIONAL MARIGOLD ALTAR |
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This morning we head to a small indigenous comunity to make traditional altars with a Pùrepecha family. This is a rare experience to enjoy an authentic experience doing something most visitors and foreigners never get to do. We will purchase the flowers and altar-frame for the family, and they will teach us how to construct it. Lunch is included. We still have a few spots left for this tour. Please contact us soon!
PRICES ARE BASED ON COST SHARING. PLEASE CONTACT US FOR MORE INFORMATION |
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The most symbolic flower of Dia de Muertos |
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“A great soul serves everyone all the time. A great soul never dies. It brings us together again and again” - Maya Angelou |
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Pùrepecha girl playing - Janitzio Island March 2016 |
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It was Porfirio Diaz who made the Island of Janitzio famous during his Presidency, prompting tourism from Mexico City via the train to Morelia, followed by the journey to Patzcuaro and the lake`s largest island. Janitzio became the romantic subject of some historic films, including one about Dia de Muertos, which ironically was filmed in the month of March. Today, Isla de Janitzio has become overwhelmed by crowds of tourists during Noche de Muertos, inspiring many guides to veer away from the island for other traditional cemeteries in the region.
Our guests are always eager to visit this charming island during their visit to our region, and to avoid contending with mass-crowds, we are opting to offer an open tour today. We will take the boat to the island and observe the magical preparations as the locals prepare for the most important night of the year. We will visit the cemetery, and return to Patzcuaro in the early afternoon. Guests should be aware that the island is a series of staircases that wind through the hillside, which can be difficult on the knees. Please contact us if you have any questions, or would like to reserve this tour. PRICE: $400 MXN |
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Isla de Janitzio - March 2015 |
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“When someone you love becomes a memory, the memory becomes a treasure” - Unknown |
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Altars are for remembering & honouring our departed loved ones - 2017 |
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This evening we will gather for a meal and lecture with Jaime Hernandez Balderas of Animecha Tours, who is also our main guide for our tours. A cultural expert and national guide with many years experience, Jaime offers an insightful lecture about the symbolism and historic and cultural roots of Dia de Muertos in our region. We ask guests to bring a 4x6 (or smaller) photo of a loved one, to place on our altar during this observation. Please bring a copy, as it´s unlikely you will get your photo back following Noche de Muertos. If you would like to say some words about the person you are honouring, we welcome you to do so. You may also order a shot from the bar, if you would like to leave a spirit for your loved one, as is a tradition here. We will enjoy a set 3 course menu, with drinks and drink tips being billed separately. PRICE: $700 MXN |
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“There is a sacredness in tears. They are not the mark of weakness but of power. They speak more eloquently than 10,000 tongues. They are messengers of overwhelming grief and unspeakable love.” - Washington Irving |
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Bringing gifts to our hosts - Lake Patzcuaro Region Oct 31, 2021 |
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This evening we depart Patzcuaro at 8 PM for the Vigil de los Angelitos in a nearby village. We will spend the evening visiting at least one private family vigil. This is an intimate experience that is generally void of foreign tourists, and we will visit families who invite us and would like to receive us. We are fortunate our guide is so well respected by the local Pùrepecha in this region, as to receive an invitation is rare. Unlike the cemetery tour on Noche de Muertos, the vigils that start on the evening of October 31 are held in the family home of whomever has crossed over. This means the locations of the vigils are in different homes each year. Guests are welcome to bring a cash donation, which we can either collect and offer as a group, or you can gift individually. We will also bring flowers, candles and fruit for our hosts (included in the price) We will return to Patzcuaro around midnight. PRICES ARE BASED ON COST SHARING. PLEASE CONTACT US FOR MORE INFORMATION |
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Vigil de los Angelitos - Lake Patzcuaro Region Oct 31, 2022 |
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“Death leaves a heartache no one can heal, love leaves a memory no one can steal.” - Irish Proverb |
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Cemetery in Tzintzuntzan - Nov 1, 2021 |
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This morning we depart Patzcuaro at 10 AM for the procession of altars in Tzintzuntzan. We will take the scenic lakeside drive, and make a short stop in Cucuchucho to observe the preparations there. Our next stop will be in Tzintzuntzan, where we will enjoy lunch at the lovely Las Yacatas Restaurant.
Following lunch we will enjoy free time so guests have the option to visit the ancient Pùrepecha Capital of Las Yacatas archaelogical site, visit the Convent or explore the handicraft market, which features carved & painted wood sculptures with village scenes, wooden sculptures, handwoven Christmas ornaments, pottery, embroidery work, hats, jewelry and more. Each of these activities will take approximately 30-40 mins, leaving you ample time to visit the cemetery of Tzintzuntzan, as the families begin to dance down the streets, carrying the altars for their loved ones, into the cemetery. We will depart for Patzcuaro around 2:45 PM. Drinks and drink tips are separate. Discretionary Tips for our driver are separate. PRICES ARE BASED ON COST SHARING. PLEASE CONTACT US FOR MORE INFORMATION |
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Cemetery in Tzintzuntzan - Nov 1, 2022 |
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“The life of the dead is placed in the memory of the living.” - Marcus Tullius Cicero |
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Lake Patzcuaro Region - November 1, 2017 |
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We have finally arrived to the climax of our tour! We are so honoured to work with Jaime Hernandez Balderas of Animecha Tours, as this Journey of Remembering is the most culturally enriching experience of our region. Many guests arrive with the desire to visit Isla de Janitzio, as it was the first cemetery of our region to be promoted for tourism in Michoacan. Today, the crowds have made visiting the island difficult, due to long lines for boat rides, a crowded line through the winding staircases, and an overwhelming experience for the local Pùrepechas who are celebrating their loved ones. There are also tours operating from Morelia that have brought as many as 400 (Yes - four hundred) guests in one group, on multiple buses through a route that became exceptionally popular after Isla de Janitzio became so over crowded. With literally thousands of tourists being careened through a dinner experience, then into crowded cemeteries, as was my first experience here in 2017, the traffic jams, lack of parking, and long lines are unmanageable. Due to the burden of tourism during Dia de Muertos, we do not always disclose the villages we are visiting, and that includes our experience for this night. What we can tell you is that we will have an intimate and exclusive dinner with a local Pùrepecha family in a small village before boarding our boat from a private dock, and enjoying enchanting cemeteries that are void of intense crowds. We will travel on roads that have very little traffic, allowing us the chance to visit more places, and to experience Noche de Muertos the way visitors did 30 years ago. We will visit one community where the children prepare songs and traditional dances for us, which is important for instilling cultural pride in an era when many children are more interested in video games, than dancing and singing. We will break our group into smaller groups for the cemetery visit here, as it is quite small. (The other cemeteries will not require this).We ask guests to be flexible, in the event that the weather dampens our experience, as this time of year is the end of our rainy season. For this evening, our group will be between 30-35 guests, which may sound like a lot, however, as we will be in small communities void of the thousands of maddening crowds, this is truly the most authentic experience one can have in our region. Guests will meet community members directly in at least two locations, and will enjoy a secret surprise along the way. We ask that you please make a small, discretionary donation to the community where we will witness the children`s performance, as this village is remote, small and communal. Please bring a comfort bag with snacks, water, an umbrella, and something warm, in case you get cold. Sturdy shoes with good grips are recommended, as the cemeteries can get slippery if it rains. A rain poncho is also advisable. Please Note: Parents now allow their children to trick or treat during Noche de Muertos, so guests often bring small candies, or change for the children. This is not frowned upon by the elders and families, as much as it is by foreign tourists! One thing we do prohibit for our Vigil and Muertos tours, are guests in costumes & make-up. We take our direction from the elders and adults, who do not dress-up in costumes for their sacred observation. Photography is permitted during Muertos, but please ask permission when we are in family homes, or when taking close-up photographs. Please do not use your flash at night. PRICES ARE BASED ON COST SHARING. PLEASE CONTACT US FOR MORE INFORMATION |
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Lake Patzcuaro Region - November 2, 2018 |
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“As long as I can I will look at this world for both of us. As long as I can I will laugh with the birds, I will sing with the flowers, I will pray to the stars, for both of us.” - Sascha |
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Lake Patzcuaro Region - Nov 2, 2019 |
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This year we are offering a Sunrise Tour of the Lake Patzcuaro Region for those who have already experienced Noche de Muertos, or are not keen on being out over night. Our guide departs Morelia at 3:00 AM for the city of Patzcuaro. From there, guests will head along a special route designed to deliver you to your first cemetery when it is still dark, and the graves are glowing with candlelight. From there, you will visit the Island of Pacanda for sunrise, when the locals begin to rise with the sun, and celebrate together. Witnessing the conclusion of Dia de Muertos is a magical experience, as the families will be eating together, and the break of dawn offers a contrasting glimpse of the cemeteries, which feel large in darkness, yet small by daylight. Once on the mainland, we will visit Tzintzuntzan`s cemetery before departing for rest! This tour will conclude in Morelia, with one stop in Patzcuaro.
If you are on our night tour and are energetic enough to join us for this tour, please contact me for more information. This tour will begin at the same cemetery as our conluding tour, but we need to make sure we have enough seats on the bus for this tour! If you extend your night tour to include this experience, you will be travelling for more than 24 hours before returning to your hotel to sleep. Please bring a comfort bag with snacks, water, an umbrella, and something warm, in case you get cold. We will not have anywhere to stop for breakfast, but there are plenty of food options along the way. It may be wise to pack a sandwich and some fruit and yogurt. Sturdy shoes with good grips are recommended, as the cemeteries can get slippery if it rains. A rain poncho is also advisable. Please Note: Parents now allow their children to trick or treat during Noche de Muertos, so guests often bring small candies, or change for the children. This is not frowned upon by the elders and families, as much as it is by foreign tourists! One thing we do prohibit for our Vigil and Muertos tours, are guests in costumes & make-up. We take our direction from the elders and adults, who do not dress-up in costumes for their sacred observation. Photography is permitted during Muertos, but please ask permission when we are in family homes, or when taking close-up photographs. Please do not use your flash at night. PRICES ARE BASED ON COST SHARING. PLEASE CONTACT US FOR MORE INFORMATION |
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Lake Patzcuaro - November 2, 2017 |
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JAIME HERNANDEZ BALDERAS Jaime Hernandez was born and raised in Patzcuaro, and has been a National Guide for many years. For some, guiding is a job or a career, but for Jaime, it's a lifestyle. Fluent in Spanish, English and proficient in P'urepecha, Jaime's fascination with culture and world history offers incredible insights into the impact of the world on Mexico, and Mexico on the world. We truly appreciate Jaime's dedication to respecting traditional protocols when organizing tours that bring guests to local communities and families, as having an invitation sets a different understanding of indigenous communities, than simply arriving and intruding. We are honoured to work with such an esteemed and knowledgeable guide and friend. Aside from working with independent tour agencies and hotels, Jaime owns and operates his own company called Animecha Tours. We are more than happy to connect guests with Jaime, and highly recommend touring with him. |
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JENNIFER BJARNASON Jennifer Bjarnason was born on the West Coast of Canada, and has been living in Michoacan since 2016. With 32 years experience working with indigenous artists from the Pacific Northwest Coast, Jennifer's background as an art dealer is what initially brought her to Michoacan. As she continued to explore Mexico, Jennifer opened Soul of Mexico Tours (now Copper Moon Travels) and began leading groups on adventures, from art collection tours to the monarch butterfly biosphere, and extended adventures in other regions of Mexico. Always exploring, Jennifer is excited to be organizing logistics for new tours, and writing unique content for unusual experiences in Mexico and beyond. In 2019, Jennifer organized a series of art workshops around the Lake Patzcuaro region, bringing guests to traditional art studios in different villages, where they had the opportunity to work with the artists, and learn some of the skills employed for their creative process. In 2022, Jennifer founded Fiesta for Frida, based on this concept, which became the first art-creation festival in Mexico. The festival began as a one day event, and expanded to two days in 2023. Though the focus of this festival is art-creation, with up to 12 artists teaching classes such as painting, popotillo weaving, ceramics, forging copper in the fire, and loom weaving, the festival also features music, theatre, traditional gastronomy of Michoacan, and artisan spirits such as local beer, mezcal, charanda and wine. Please visit Fiesta for Frida, and join us for our 2024 festival, which runs May 4-5. Jennifer organizes most of our logistics, creates parties, schedules lectures, personally selects wines, mezcals and beers for special events, and even makes sauces, baked goods and other special treats for our picnics. She looks forward to hosting you! |
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GERARDO CHAVEZ Gerardo Chavez is a Licensed National Guide based in Morelia, Michoacan. He has worked as a guide for over 10 years, travelling all over Mexico with international and local groups. |
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“Those we love never truly leave us. There are things that deathcannot touch” - Jack Thorne |
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Please contact Jennifer Bjarnason at coppermoontravels@protonmail.com or text me via Whatsapp at +52 443 639 2782. If you would like me to call you, please email or text me with your name and phone number, and preferred time to call. Some guests prefer to chat in person. WE TRULY LOOK FORWARD TO EXPLORING WITH YOU! |
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