“If light is in your heart you will find
your way home”

- Rumi - 

Costa Rica has been characterized as one of the countries with the highest quality cacao but even here, cacao trees don't thrive everywhere. The plants only grow in a very narrow geographic band, the so called " cacao belt" which lies between 20 degrees North and South of the equator. Cacao plants need high humidity and high rainfall.

The country is still recovering from a fungus the destroyed most of the industry back in the '70s. Cacao farmers are now experimenting with genetic improvements, with institutions like the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Center (CATIE), in Turrialba in the center of the country. Among their other important contributions, they're helping farmers develop sturdier strains of cacao.

As we leave the beautifully manicured patches of land, these yield to fertile fields rich with the heady scent of pineapple, the country's most important export crop. From the crossroads of the roads to San Jose and Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui, the eyes behold the wonder on the extensive pineapple plantations. Trucks full of pineapples zoom by, the sweet scents still lingering in the air for minutes after they've pass.

The Caribbean side has a noticeably different vibe and look from the Pacific coast, which we currently call home - the vegetation is even more lush and "jungly", while the food and the people have a strong island influence.

Once one arrives in Puerto Viejo, a great way to first approach the cacao topic is to pay a visit to a beautiful store located in the center of town. The Choco store organizes tours and classes, and it represents a great number of local producers. For our first farm visit, I chose the Caribeans Chocolate Forest Experience Tour. Everyone in my family got to taste a number of "tree to bar" chocolates, walk the Caribeans Chocolate plantation (finca), admire the skills of the local chocolate "masters" and taste fresh cacao beans. The owners Jeanne and Paul were among the first to make chocolate here, and they are now supporting from 15 local farms.

While the rest of the family enjoyed the final soccer matches of the World Cup, I had the privilege of a private tour at Morena Clara, in Hone Creek on the outskirts of Puerto Viejo.

I enjoyed visiting this small plantation and meeting Andrea, a young cacao grower. She is working on re-establishing the customs of her Afro-Caribbean ancestors through chocolate. A very passionate young woman with whom I had the pleasure of sharing ideas and feedback.

Cacao in this part of the country tastes different, I find. It makes sense, as both climate and terrain play a major part in the formation of cacao flavor profile. As with wine, the proximity of the water and the lower altitude give the cacao unique notes.

The last visit was dedicated to the BriBri, a native population, We learned about the local traditions of the indigenous people and the sacred value of cacao ('Tsuru', in the Bribri language.)

According to Wikipedia, approximately 35,000 Bribri people live in Costa Rica. The majority still reside on ancestral land in the Talamanca canton, along the southern Caribbean coast. Due in part to their isolation, the Bribri have maintained their society and traditions for thousands of years.

Learning about ancient techniques and natural remedies of plants and crops helps me understand how the cacao fruit was used for centuries to heal, nurture and purify. I have yet to attend a "Cacao Ceremony", a way in which cacao drink is used for sacred rituals - but I just got invited to one at the end of the month so I will report about it in my next newsletter.

Chocolate and foods aside, another highlight of this trip was the discovering of a fabulous glamping spot. As you can see from my pictures we all enjoyed the perks of the overnight in such a fancy tent. I couldn't believe that the owners of La Colina Secreta Glamping lived in Bergamo (northern Italy) and speak Italian fluently. A spot not to be missed! 

 The owners also have expertise in coffee and cacao, and they introduce me to a chocolate company located in Turrialba. Nortico, is a cacao grower that was established quite recently and which is applying all the knowledge of the CATIE research center in their farm to create sturdier but flavorful cacao crops. I was lucky enough to arrange a very last minute visit with the wonderful owner, Aldo, and convinced my family to drive back through through San Jose with a stop at this farm. Well, not a bad decision considering that the drive offered us an incredible view on rain forest rich slopes of Cartago and Turrialba.

The more I learn about cacao and chocolate the more I realize that one of the things I enjoy the most, besides learning about the beautiful world of chocolate, is sharing what I know with other people. I hope to be able to expand this side of Dolce Federica once back in Montclair. For now, I had the opportunity to organize a couple of bonbon-making classes in the area using local chocolate, and I am host another one this weekend.

A couple of interesting facts: 

•  Sunsets are a little later now, at about 5:40 pm, meaning that days are getting longer again!

•  Public schools are closed until the end of February (from right before Christmas) the equivalent of our schools' summer vacation.

   

By now I feel that if any of you are planning a trip to Costa Rica, I can offer some ideas.

Sure hope you enjoyed reading about these adventures. Til the next one!

Although not directly related to chocolate, I can't resist sharing a few pictures from our two visits to Ostional for the "arribada" - the arrival of the Olive Ridley sea turtles. A once in a lifetime sight!