When earth, air and water meet for tea

What connects the tea-growing region of Darjeeling to the famous wine district of Champagne? Adeline Teoh on how terroir influences the flavour of tea.

‘Terroir’ is a French word that in its simplest translation means ‘land’. The art of winemaking, however, has elevated this term to a much sought-after element in artisan produce. In an agricultural context, terroir means soil, topography and climate and even altitude, rainfall and sunlight.

You may not know the term, but you probably already understand the concept. Champagne (the beverage) can only come from the Champagne region of France – everything else is merely sparkling white wine.

The same goes for tea. Why is Darjeeling so special? First of all, like champagne it’s a geographical indication, a kind of ‘intellectual property’ related to place. Growers or producers seek a geographical indication when they believe their offering possesses certain qualities and has a good reputation because of its origin. It’s ironic, then, that some people call Darjeeling ‘the champagne of tea’.

The reason Darjeeling tea producers sought this designation is because they believed their product has a particular taste because of what it is (Camellia sinensis var. sinensis) and the conditions under which it grows, in particular the altitude, as the designation specifies certain hilly tea estates.

The secret is, tea doesn’t need an official geographical indication to be special. Longitude, latitude and altitude all play their part in the climate and growing conditions, as does everything from the soil biome, which rocks (and therefore which minerals) are in the vicinity and how much sun the plants receive. If you processed tea grown on opposites sides of the same mountain separately they will taste different!

So next time you go to buy specialty tea, be sure to ask where it comes from. Terroir gives tea its individuality – it’s the place where magic happens.

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Read more about geographical indication.

(Below: Tea gardens of Darjeeling; photo credit: Boudhayan Bardhan on Unsplash)

FAQs

How do I vote for the next AUSTCS venue?

Nominations are currently open for AUSTCS 2021 on our website. Anyone – members and non-members – can nominate a location. The top six nominations will be shortlisted. Voting is for members only and will take place during AUSTCS 2019.

How are AUSTCS directors elected?

Nominations to become an AUSTCS director must be received by 5pm AEST Friday 6th September 2019. The candidates are presented at the Annual General Meeting at 4.30pm AEST Saturday 7th September 2019 to be voted on by members present and by proxy. The candidate must be an AUSTCS member at the time of nomination.

Our constitution states that a director can only serve three years at a time before they must be re-elected. If re-elected, they may serve another three years. 

Why should I consider becoming a director?

Do you like what we are doing? Then join us and support our activities! Do you think we should take a different direction? Becoming a director will give you the authority to shape the organisation. We are looking for someone who can represent members and has the time, energy and commitment to serve them.

Photo: Dr Gordon Brown of Tassie-T/Dry Ideas; credit: The Mercury

Exploring Brand Tasmania

What is the role of place in an artisan product?

The Australian Tea Cultural Seminar is proud to present a panel of three Tasmanian producers as part of its seminar program this year.

Hailing from the tea (Dr Gordon Brown), spirits (Kristy Booth-Lark) and honey (Peter Norris) industries, these panellists will discuss the artisan nature of their work and explain how Tasmania has given their respective products unique properties.

They will also share their thoughts on the value of ‘Brand Tasmania’ and how they leverage place in their marketing. This panel will draw parallels with terroir in the tea industry and how place and origin shapes both the product and the culture around it.

Brand Tasmania will be on at 9.30am on Day 2 (Sunday) of the seminar.

Our panellists:

Dr Gordon Brown

Founder of Tassie-T/Dry Ideas

Dr Gordon Brown is a horticultural scientist who, in the mid-1990s with fellow scientist and wife Jane Brown, started the world’s southernmost tea plantation in Allens Rivulet, Tasmania after discovering the state had the perfect climate. Harvested and processed using innovative repurposed machinery, Tassie-T leaves become green, black and oolong teas.

He also conducts research for, and consults to, agribusinesses as the founder of Scientific Horticulture.

Kristy Booth-Lark

Founder of Killara Distillery

Kristy Booth-Lark is the owner and head distiller at Killara Distillery, which produces boutique handcrafted whisky and other spirits. As the eldest daughter of Bill and Lyn Lark of Lark Distillery, Kristy represents the second generation of Tasmanian whisky pioneers and has been involved in the industry since her teens.

She is also the founding president of the Australian Women in Distilling Association, which started in 2017.

Peter Norris

Founder of Heritage Honey

Peter Norris is a fifth-generation Tasmanian who started his career in the automotive industry, running a London VW-Audi garage. As a hobby he kept beehives until varroa mites wiped out all but 25 hives. In 1999, he returned to Tasmania and, while defending leatherwood from forestry operations, started the commercial hive which became Heritage Honey.

He has held the position of president at the Southern Tasmanian Beekeepers Association since 2008 and is also vice-president of the Tasmanian Beekeepers Association.

Upcoming events

1 September: Native Tea Making, Sydney

3 September: Japanese Tea Brewing Workshop, Melbourne

7 September: Tea Essentials Talk, Hobart

7-8 September: Australian Tea Cultural Seminar, Hobart

15 September: Tea Workshop at Jardin Tan, Melbourne

Do you have an event to promote? Let events liaison Kym Cooper know!