day of the dude * March 6

They say that “only a surfer knows the feeling.” It has also been shared that “we live to learn to love.”

The dude has begun to bring balance, synchronicity, harmony and rhythm into her body. She has been touched by the love of our ocean divine, and is learning intimacy as newfound ocean lover and familiar.

At his best the dude is natural, humble and trusting, if not understated. We have come to exalt in and bless this life, and each and every wave that we are given. No longer are we trying too hard and as things just come naturally. Sitting around the beach bonfire we share shaka brahs and the aloha spirit, hanging loose as cross cultural participants in the international worldwide good vibe tribe of surfers.

We’ve gone from the Big Lebowski to the Big Easy, and from Spicoli to on Bali High. Yankee Doodle Dandy has come upon her Sandy Beach. As the dude we know surf solidarity and a beach camaraderie.

Sean Penn as Spicoli in Fast Times at Ridgemont High as illustrated by John Kurien, and Turtle of North Shore, and as played by John Philbin (pictured)

dude * grom of rays

Best of the gremmies, the dude surfs hard and is the ever ready surfer. Whether ankleslappers or monster surf, he’s out there. “To surf or not to surf,” is numero uno, unto our surf aficionado. Our apprentice surf rat treats surf lingo and esoterica as sacred. She presides over surfing as ritual. She combs her wax and wets sand onto her board before paddling out. She is dedicated to the sport and just now good enough to get good equipment. He’s not smooth yet, but he does perform aerials, and is developing an innate sense of wave knowledge. As Shakti surfer, she is in “fluid drive,” and riding on pure stoke. “Expression sessions” are the spawning grounds for his emerging style. His style is full tilt and at full blast, one of an all out surfing. She’s got jams, boardshorts, baggies and a good wetsuit and is on a surf odyssey. Surf prodigy and waterman or waterwoman to be, our surfernatural is learning about Ma Ocean and is startin’ to “know the feelin’.”

illustration Leisa O'Brien

With an emergent sense of wonder and sanguine curiosity, she is beginning to ask the questions. “Who am I? Why am I here? Where have I come from? Where am I going?” He is emerging from a “clumsy ignorance” and is now developing an unconscious understanding of things. She will not be discouraged and is wise beyond her years. He has learned and listened, and is a loyal supporter of the scene. He can be counted on. As is the tribal custom in our coastal subculture, he has risen within the rank and file. She can feel awkward with her newfound social acceptance, or even notoriety, and her heart beats with her chi on fire. As tomboy she is fully immersed and ingrained within her “roots” experience, with laid back body language and casual tone of voice giving way to an ease of manner. He’s uncontrived, happy and hopeful, and on a natural high. As endearing cherub, her subtle effervescence and sparkle give way to an innocence of youth, aglow in ecstatic bliss. He is exhilarated and exuberant, with a vitality that leaves him uninhibited and free flowing. There is a freshness to the dude. He’s “gotta have it,” day in, and day out. Adventurous when opportunity knocks, she is no longer knave when venturing “into the wild” unknown. The dude is full of potential and has good mana. He is accumulating skills and is a budding star, ready to be fitted for a leisure suit. She is impressionable and has developed a knack for having fun. In good shape, his newfound sense of identity builds character and self esteem. Our “little soul brother” has emancipated himself.

illustrations Alexandre Flores Torrano

The dude must learn self reliance. “Indecision brings misfortune,” and missed fortunes. Missed opportunities teach her she shouldn’t bite off more than she can chew. She is a little bit racy and pays for her impatience. Too much too soon leads to injuries and a “harder she falls.” Overenthusiastic and driven, she creates dicey situations for herself. People handle her with caution. The dude shows flashes, but is of dashed potential. He’s never hit it big, but has a strong desire to become the top dog. He needs to bring balance into things and real eyes he’s not just a total surf rat. The dude doesn’t want to be an “old guy” just living on life’s treadmill, just treading the water of life. With truncated English, the dude has to be cool and in with the in crowd. But people keep their distance. They see a lack of trust in himself.

illustration Alexandre Flores Torrano, and Carving by Remi Bertoche

Surfing is the drive of your spirit to know your self. Surf and you will find yourself in the process. Begin to trust in life. Follow the sun. Be in awe at the wonder of it all. Shed the material and create a new way in the world that reflects your unfolding spiritual development and journey. You’ve come a long way. Free yourself from mental slavery. You have the “unequivocal right to enjoy your life” as a dude. You’ve gained our respect. Listen to advice and suggestions. Surfing as a spiritual discipline or meditation requires daily maintenance and practice. You will make steady progress, all in due time. “Surfing is good direction,” as “subtle adopted ritual.” In our Mother Ocean we trust. Surfing becomes our way of being on our water planet. The dude has found his way. Surfing is life, and “it’s all about the ride.” Move swiftly with small ego, shining heart, and of great spirit. You have to “chance ‘um.” The path is not necessarily one of propriety. As “free spirits and independent thinkers,” we give thanks for our “wild and untamed sensual freedoms.” Be true to life. Share of yourself. Exercise free will and you will fall in love with life. “Truth and soul correlate to love and joy.” You are a universal lover, and know truth as “univisceral.” There is strength in community. You have arrived. Settle into that place of peace, “of total absorption,” which begets a “lifelong sense of joy and enthusiasm,” and of which keeps us young. Retrace your steps. Recover loves lost. Keep it simple. “Promise yourself to be yourself”. Find what feels natural. Trust in your own “good vibrations.” Self discovery restores faith. Know yourself and then wear what you want. Dudes are cool. The surfcat lives nine lives in one. She has found her rhythm and is on a different wavelength. As an initiate unto the surf esotericism, she has an undiluted love for our Mother Ocean, and for herself.