Nana Librada & Grandaughter Rosa, Lake Patzcuaro Region Oct 30, 2023

We are Waiting for You!

WELCOME to our November issue of The Curator. We trust you all had a wonderful Dia de Muertos, or Halloween, if you happen to celebrate either or both. We were having a wonderful time with guests from all over the map including Canada, the USA, Mexico, Russia, Scotland and Germany! Thanks to everyone who came out to our events and joined us in celebrating this beautiful observance of Ancestor Worship.

We look forward to meeting some of you this coming Nov 28 in Chiapas, for our Women are Sacred tour! We still have spots available for this amazing journey, so please share with your women-kin and join us for an eclectic tour that has something for everyone!

We are still working out the details for our Copper Canyon Tour for Semana Santa 2024. The Chepe Express Schedule just changed their days of operation, which threw our itinerary off. If you are interested in this tour, please send me an email so I can add you to my Copper Canyon list.

We have now connected STRIPE to our website, so you can pay for tours and events directly now. If you use WISE, please contact us for payment, as we can discount your tour price. Wise does not charge us the huge fees that we pay for STRIPE, which allows us to pass on the savings to you. Every little bit helps!

See you next month!

Warm Wishes,
Jennifer Bjarnason

Proprietor

The most magical night of the year, Lake Patzcuaro Region - Nov 2, 2023

THE ACCIDENTAL MAYANIST

The Epic Life of Tatiana Proskouriakoff

TO MICHOACAN WITH LOVE

Art Collection Tour from San Miguel de Allende - January 2024

XOCHICALCO UNESCO SITE

In the House of Flowers

A SACRED MIGRATION

With Wildlife Scientist Trecia. E Neal

& Cultural Expert & Historian Jaime Hernandez

WOMEN ARE SACRED

A Women`s Journey Through Chiapas

Tatiana Proskouriakoff

The Epic Life of

Tatiana Proskouriakoff

Born in 1909 in the Siberian city of Tomsk, Tatiana Proskouriakoff departed Russia in 1915 when her father, who was a chemist, was contracted by Czar Nicholas II to oversee the manufacturing of munitions in the United States.  The family was living in Ohio when the Czar was forced to abdicate the throne (1917), and thus decided that a permanent relocation was more attractive than returning to the turmoil of the Russian Revolution and ongoing World War I.  Proskouriakoff  became a naturalized citizen of the United States in 1924. 

With an early start in literacy at the age of 3, and a love for the arts that prompted her parents to pay for watercolor and drawing classes when she was a child, Proskouriakoff studied at the Pennsylvania Museum School of Industrial Art and in 1926, she enrolled in the Pennsylvania State College School of Architecture, graduating as the only female in her class in 1930. 

The Acropolis, Piedras Negras Guatemala by Tatiana Proskouriakoff 1936

As a high-functioning professional in a man`s world, Proskouriakoff`s first employment involved drafting cross-stitch patterns.  To counter her sheer boredom, Proskouriakoff volunteered at the university museum, drafting archaeological sketches under the mentorship of the Assistant Curator archaeologist and epigrapher Linton Satterthwaite (1897-1978).  In 1936, Satterthwaite invited Proskouriakoff to accompany him to the remote Lacandona jungle region of Central America, where she first rested her eyes on the magnificent ruins of Piedras Negras.  Positioned on the banks of the Usumacinta River, Piedras Negras is one of the finest examples of Classic Maya style, though still being reclaimed by the lush jungle.

Upon her return to the United States, Proskouriakoff drafted a large-scale architectural interpretation of the Acropolis from Piedras Negras, based on the sketches and notes she had made.  This caught the eye of archaeologist Sylvanus Morely (1883-1948), who did extensive field work and research for the Carnegie Institute of Washington.  Morely was so impressed by the meticulous precision of Proskouriakoff `s skill, and her vision to discern such interpretations from a crumbling ruin, he implored the Carnegie Institute to hire her.  When the Institute refused employment, on the grounds that Proskouriakoff didn´t have a degree in Maya studies or archaeology, the insistent Sylvanus Morely raised funds for her independently and in 1939, invited her to accompany him to the ancient sites of Copan in Honduras, and select sites in the Yucatan Peninsula. 

By the early 1940`s, Proskouriakoff`s skill was undeniable, and she was granted a post as Research Associate of the Carnegie Institute. 

Tatiana Proskouriakoff

Proskouriakoff`s passion for the Maya continued to expand.  She became engrossed in the study of Maya hieroglyphs, making exceptional contributions to this study throughout her lifetime.  One example was the deciphering of hieroglyphics at Takalik Abaj in Guatemala.  Located in the Highlands on the Pacific side of Guatemala, this ancient city was first settled by the Olmec.  For many years, there was postulation of the Maya culture being present at this site.  It wasn`t until 1942, when Proskouriakoff`s analysis of the hieroglyphs from this site confirmed it part Maya.

Over the course of their careers, there was considerable dialogue between Tatiana Proskouriakoff and British archaeologist Eric S. Thompson, regarding their observations and analysis of Maya hieroglyphs.  As a woman in a man`s profession, Proskouriakoff never lacked the courage to stand her ground, and challenge societal norms – including the established theories of a well-regarded archaeologist who was insistent that his research was correct.  As documented in two aggressive letters, Thompson was convinced the hieroglyphs only represented the passage of time, that aspects that were astronomical and that hieroglyphs could not be read phonetically.   Proskouriakoff posited Maya hieroglyphs were indeed phonetic, and that the stelaes documented important events, such as the births, deaths and accession dates for royalty.  In 1960, a stubborn, analytical and determined Proskouriakoff published Historical Implications of a Pattern of Dates at Piedras Negras, and the field of Maya studies was forever changed.

Tatiana Proskouriakoff

 From a drafter of cross-stitch designs to architect, archaeologist, Mayanist and honorary curator of Maya Art at the Peabody Museum of Harvard, all without every having obtained an official degree or doctorate outside of Architecture, Proskouriakoff was fondly nicknamed “The Accidental Mayanist” by Alessandro Pezzati of the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology at Penn State University.  He wrote: “Of all the brilliant minds that have illuminated the firmament of ancient Mayan studies, there is none who arouses as much admiration, inspiration and absolute devotion as Tatiana Proskouriakoff.”

Proskouriakoff died in Cambridge, Massachusetts on August 30, 1985 at the age of 76.  It was April 12, 1998 and Easter Sunday when Proskouriakoffs friend and colleague, archaeologist David Stuart, brought her ashes to Piedras Negras, where they were interred on the Acropolis – the very structure at the heart of her first interpretation that launched her fascinating career.

This November 28, we embark on an adventure of a life-time to celebrate women, on our Women are Sacred exploration of Chiapas. We will be visiting the ancient site of Piedras Negras during our travels, to explore the site and pay homage to the life of this brilliant woman. Please join us - we have a few spaces left for those of you who are eager and spontaneous!

Backstrap Weavers of Michoacan, Mexico April 2022

Tour Departs from

San Miguel de Allende

January 18-24, 2024

Fondly called The Soul of Mexico, Michoacan is a treasure trove, from the majestic monarchs of the oyamel forests, the cobbled streets of the enchanting towns and villages of Lake Patzcuaro, and the vastness and purity of the Púrepecha Meseta, where foreigners remain unseen.

​

Join our art collector extravaganza through a very special region of Michoacan State, to visit artistans in their homes and studios.  The rural roads of the Pùrepecha Meseta are among the least travelled by foreigners, and you will feel as though you´ve stepped back in time when traversing this region.  

​

ART MEDIUMS YOU WILL SEE

​​

• Ceramic pineapple vessels, dolls and donkeys

• High-fired ceramic dishes with beautiful patterns

• Whimsical devil sculptures and religious allegories crafted from ceramics

• Coveted large brown coil-pottery vessels

• Museum quality Deshilado dresses and blouses

• Highly collectible loom-woven wool gabons (ponchos)

• Rebozos of wool or cotton and stunning pieces with feather plumes

• Wood  carved masks used by local dancers

• Copper pieces forged by hand, from barware to bathtubs and art pieces

• Gallery with distressed furniture 

• Paintings meticulously crafted with bird feathers

• Catrina Dolls

• Black-glazed ceramic Incense Burners & Candle Holders

Rebozos with fancy & feather plume fringes Septemmber 2022

During this tour, we will visit the Church Ruins of San Juan Parangaricutiro, which was slowly devoured by Paricutin Volcano in the 1940`s. We will spend the day with a local Pùrepecha family for a traditional cooking class, and will also enjoy a back-strap weaving demonstration. We will also visit select churches, and learn about Don Vasco Quiroga`s strategy to create a Utopia through the Pueblo Hospital concept, which remains a tradition nearly 500 years later.

For art enthusiasts who love learning about indigenous narratives, and collecting everything from handicrafts to museum quality textiles and fine art paintings, this tour may just have you setting up an art gallery by the time you return!

Click on the link below to view the tour page and photo gallery of art mediums availabule during this tour. Please do not hesitate to contact Jennifer if you have any questions.

Photo by William Neuheisel

In the House of Flowers

The ancient city of Xochicalco is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and located in the state of Morelos. The Nahuatl name Xochicalco loosely translates as "In the House of Flowers." Emerging as a rising political force and trade center during the final era of Teotihuacan's decline, this city may have played a role in the downfall of Teotihuacan's civilization and possibly housed citizens who migrated from Mexico's mysterious central city.

Originally settled around 200 BCE, some scholars propose that the lands of Xochicalco were initially abandoned due to the eruption of Mt. Xitle, occurring sometime between 50 CE and 350 CE. This volcano, situated approximately 29 miles north of Xochicalco, devastated the region, rendering it uninhabitable and compelling populations to migrate toward Teotihuacan, which reached its peak population of around 200,000 citizens by 500 CE.

The illustrious city of Xochicalco was later established in 650 CE, although archaeologists remain uncertain about its original founders. Many believe the city was first inhabited by the Olmeca-Xicalanca and/or the Maya. Others posit that the Zapotec settled here after moving north from Monte Alban. A popular theory suggests that the decline of Teotihuacan played a significant role in the rise and flourishing of Xochicalco as a cosmopolitan center with citizens from all the aforementioned cultures. Despite limited agricultural opportunities in the surrounding region, archaeologists theorize that this religious center was constructed primarily for trade due to its convenient location along an important trade network. Xochicalco enjoyed a strategic advantage, being situated atop three hills, providing a panoramic view for defense against potential encroaching enemies.

Temple of Quetzalcoatl - Photo by Rodolfo Araiza

Determining the cultural affiliations of the magnificent city of Xochicalco is facilitated through the examination of architectural design and iconography, particularly within the elaborate frescoes present. The Temple of Quetzalcoatl showcases influences from both Teotihuacano and Maya culture, as evidenced by its distinctive features. Additionally, sculptures with a unique Maya character contribute to the city's cultural tapestry. Notably, the site reveals traces of various other cultures that may have inhabited it at different points in time, leading to speculation that the rulers possibly engaged an eclectic community of artists. Similar to city-states worldwide, the ancient cities of Mesoamerica, including Xochicalco, exhibited cosmopolitan and diverse characteristics, even though they were often under the control of a dominant cultural group.

In terms of chronology, Xochicalco was settled much later than Teotihuacan (established around 400 BCE) or Maya sites in the southern regions. With its founding in 650 CE, Xochicalco is comparatively young when compared to established sites such as Tikal and Monte Alban (dating back to 500 BCE) or Copan (dating to 1000 BCE). The construction of her temples places Xochicalco in the Epiclassic Period and presents a unique development within the broader historical timeline of Mesoamerican civilizations.

Stelae featuring the Rain-God Tlaloc, Xochicalco Morelos

Though the Temple of Quetzalcoatl is the crown jewel in the eyes of visitors to this site, it`s the Temple of Stelaes that intrigues and impresses archaeologists more. It seems the central plaza was constructed prior to the Temple of Stelaes, prompting city-planners to add an extension to the plaza in order to accommodate this structure. As it houses the ancient deities of Tlaloc and Quetzalcaotl, the timing of this construction has archaeologists puzzled and contemplative.

Tlaloc is celebrated as the Mexica God of Rain, yet predates the Mexica Culture by at least 800 years. Tlaloc was worshipped by the Teotihuacano and Toltec cultures prior to the rise of the Mexica. With features similar to Chac of the Maya Empire, and Cocijo of Zapotec cosology, this Rain God is truly pan-Mesoamerican and yet specific to Teotihuacan and the Mexica. As Teotihuacan dominated the cotton trade of the Zapotec, there was already an exchange of cultural and religious ideology. This harkens the question - why was the Temple of Stelaes added later, as some kind of after-thought?

1. Cultural Evolution and Migration: The evolution of religious beliefs and practices is often influenced by cultural exchanges, migrations, and the convergence of diverse populations. The delayed appearance of Tlaloc in Xochicalco might be linked to the arrival of new groups, such as the Zapotec, who brought with them different religious traditions and deities.

    

2. Integration of Cultures: Xochicalco, as a cosmopolitan center, may have experienced a gradual blending of diverse cultures over time. The integration of the Cult of Tlaloc into Xochicalco's religious landscape could reflect a process of cultural assimilation and the adoption of new ideas and practices. This would be especialy true if the Maya were the original founders of the city.

    

3. Architectural Additions: The construction of the Temple of Stelaes as an addition to the original center of Xochicalco suggests a deliberate effort to expand or modify the city's religious architecture. This may have been prompted by changing religious beliefs, the arrival of new populations, or a desire to establish new connections with specific deities. This area presents many challenges for agriculture, which could have prompted a necessity to appease the God who makes things grow.

    

4. Connection to Zapotec Presence: The evidence of Zapotec presence at Xochicalco suggests a dynamic interplay between different Mesoamerican cultures. The arrival of the Zapotec, potentially after the decline of Monte Albán, could have brought new religious elements, including the worship of Tlaloc, to Xochicalco. This point must be made, as the structure of the Temple of Stelaes itself, is similar to the architecture found at Monte Alban.

    

5. Cultural Continuity and Transformation: Tlaloc's celebration by various cultures, including Teotihuacano, Toltec, Mexica, and Zapotec, highlights the adaptability and continuity of certain religious traditions across different Mesoamerican societies. The late incorporation of Tlaloc in Xochicalco may signify a cultural transformation rather than a complete introduction of a new deity. It is possible that the Stelae of Tlaloc was also moved to the Temple of Steleas from elsewhere, after the temple was constructed. The possibilities are endless.

The Star Observatory of Xochicalco

While the construction of Xochicalco is dated at 650 CE, the decline of Monte Alban was marked by 850 CE, 300 years after the fall of Teotihuacan, which at one time was a close ally and trading partner. If Xochicalco operated as a trade-post, and was inhabited by Teotihuacano`s, surely the trade relationship would have remained. Perhpas the Zapotec-style Temple of Stelae`s was added to the city after the decline of Monte Alban, and was presented as a dowry or a gift to gain permission to live or trade as partners.

This impressive city leaves us with many questions, but is an enigma well-worth exploring. Designated a World Heritgae Site in 1999, it is considered one of the most under-rated archaeological sites in Mesoamerica. After only 250 years of occupation, the trade routes of Mesameerica were collapsing, and lacking the ability to sustain her population, Xochicalco fell. This sunning and elaborate city was set ablaze and burned to the ground, before being abandoned.

In February 2024, join us for an epic pilgrimage to visit the Monarch Butterflies with Wildlife Biologist Trecia E. Neal. We will be visiting this profound ancient city on our way to Mexico`s famous silver town, Taxco de Alarcon.

Please Note: Xochicalco declined before the Mexica rose, so though they are mentioned in this article, there is no evidence to suggest they ever inhabited this site. We will continue to add more information about this site in future newsletters.

Butterflies of the UNESCO protected Monarch Reserve, Mexico

February 10 - 17, 2024

A journey to the Monarch wintering grounds is a cathartic experience.  Hiking and riding through the Oyamel forests, with monarchs fluttering through the trees, congregating in the creek-beds, and feeding on the colorful nectar plants is a bewildering sight to see.

​

It gets even better when you travel with an experienced biologist who has dedicated a lifetime to studying these beautiful winged creatures.  To witness millions of monarchs is one thing, but to understand their biology means fostering a deeper understanding of their migration.

​

HIGHLIGHTS FROM THIS TOUR

​

• Tour with a Monarch Expert, who specializes in Monarch gardens

• Visit two important, yet unique butterfly reserves

• Explore the ancient UNESCO protected city of Xochicalco

• Shop for jewelry in Mexico´s famous silver town, Taxco de Alarcon

• Swim in the frigid but crystal clear fountain of Pozos Azul

• If you haven´t had enough, you can join us in Chiapas for an extended tour that includes our Birds of the Maya Empire, starting 2 days after this tour ends!

It is an honour to work with such a passionate Wildlife Biologist as Trecia Neal, and we are thrilled that she returns this year for tours to the Monarch Biosphere, and later to Chiapas for a birding extravaganza. We have pieced together both of these tours to include nature and archaeology, with time for exploring the cultural arts from the regions we are visiting. We look forward to hosting you for these educational and adventurous experiences!

El Chiflon Cascades, Chiapas

November 28-December 8, 2023

We will meet you at the Tuxtla Gutierrez Airport this coming November 28! We still have room for 4 more women to join us, so please share this information with any adventurous women you know, who love art, culture and history. This is a once-in-a-lifetime chance to visit the extremely remote city of Piedras Negras in Guatemala, attend a cooking class with Maya women in their traditional highland village, view the famous murals of Bonampak, enjoy a special weaving and pottery demonstration in two different villages, and benefit from the local knowledge of our guide, Gabriela Gudino Gual, who has worked as a National Guide for 28 years, and served as tourism delegate for Chiapas.

Highlights include the Amber & Jade Museums, the Sergio Castro Textile Collection, Cooking Class & weaving demonstration in Zinacantan, pottery demonstration in Amatenango del Valle, boat rides along the Usumacinta River to the remote ancient cities of Piedras Negras and Yaxchilan, and also Bonampak and Palenque. We will crown our tour with a visit to Parque la Venta in Villahermosa to see the giant stone Olmec head sculptures before guests return home. 10 Nights of epic fun, laughter and adventure, spent between the cool highlands of San Cristobal de las Casas, and the warm, humid jungles of Selva Lacandona.

The Labyrinth of Yaxchilan, Chiapas

Please contact Jennifer Bjarnason at coppermoontravels@protonmail.com or text me via Whatsapp at +52 443 639 2782.

If you would like me to call you, please email or text me with your name and phone number, and preferred time to call. Some guests prefer to chat in person.

WE TRULY LOOK FORWARD TO EXPLORING WITH YOU!

Join us in the Copper Canyon for Easter 2024. Email us for mmore information!