Words by T W Coombs
Unlike the two grapes previously written about in this series that were versatile and grown world wide, this red grape is stubbornly local and rarely strays outside of Piedmont in the north-west of Italy.
The Nebbiolo grape is known for being high in acidity, high in alcohol and high in tannins and is compared by some advocates to Burgundy's Pinot Noir, I think it can be, but more the older brother.
This punchy grape, that you may still be scratching your head having not heard of, is actually very famous. When it is at home in the hills and valley country of the Langhe, it is used to make the high end Barbaresco and Barolo wines, two of the most globally recognised wines produced.
By law these two are aged for two and three years before release, but you can get Nebbiolo d’Alba at a younger age, as it can be released after only a year. Due to the high level of tannins at the forefront of a young wine, it is better to let them age so they mature and balance the acidity and tannings with the fruit before you pull the cork.
The Nebbiolo grape is one of the more noble grapes from the other grapes grown in Italy, over 350 varieties across the country. It is named after nebbia, which is fog that sometimes can cover the vineyards in the Piedmont region. Due to its complexities of firm tannins and high alcohol it can be slightly unforgiving, even to your more seasoned wine drinker, but you get the right bottle and you will never turn back. With approximately thirteen million litres of wine produced a year from about 171 producers there are plenty to try.
The Nebbiolo grape is used to create a few other wines in other areas, it does well in Gattinara and Ghemme wine areas but is known as Spanna. In case you encounter the name, it is the same grape. It is also grown in California, Argentina and Australia, but not in the amounts that it is in its home region in Italy and is sold under the grape name.
With flavours and aromas of roses, leather, chocolate and tar, they are certainly very complex, the more richer aged Barolos will hit you with earthy notes, truffle and liquorice as the younger Barbaresco will give you leafy and cherry flavours with hints of cigar. If you go with a more modern Barolo the fruit is riper and therefore more approachable than one made in the more traditional way, which will balance all the levels once it has time to soften.
The all important food pairings, for Nebbiolo wines it needs to be rich. Go with meats like game and beef or highly rich risottos. Try with a board of cured meats and rich cheeses which will match amazingly, these are serious wines and not just for a casual afternoon glass.
Enjoy a bottle at Vino.
