The Chinaman who opened Australia's first tearoom

Remembering Mei Quong Tart

Ahead of the Lunar New Year (16 February, Year of the Dog) Adeline Teoh remembers Sydney mandarin Mei Quong Tart, the Chinaman who opened Australia's first tearoom.

Born in China in 1850 but transported to the gold fields of New South Wales at age nine to accompany an uncle, Mei Quong Tart became a popular Sydney figure and a crucial bridge between British colonial Australia and its Chinese immigrants. 

 

Although he initially made money through investing in gold claims, after a trip to China to see his family, he began to import tea. As David Lyons writes:

 

His aspirations for Sydney was to set up in trading of tea and silks, popular items in this new and growing city. In 1881, he decided to return to China to seek opportunities of securing quality products and trade agreements. Before his departure Quong acquired letters of recommendation from the highest of Sydney’s society, including the Premier Sir Henry Parkes.

 

His visit to China was a great success. Armed with his newly created status and the accompanying letters of recommendation, they helped him to secure the trade agreements he wanted.

 

Tart initially opened a small teahouse and then when it proved popular, he established the Loong Shan Tea House in central Sydney in 1889. The Loong Shan was well-regarded by government officials and high society but it was the ladies of Sydney who truly appreciated having somewhere reputable to meet; the tearooms have long been regarded as the engine room for the women's suffrage movement in Australia.

 

In August 1902, he was attacked by a man named Frederick Duggan at his offices. Duggan was sentenced to 12 years in prison for what police said was a robbery gone wrong. Tart's friends suspected jealous businessmen behind the assault, though they were split between a racially motivated attack orchestrated by white Australians or a hit ordered by resentful members of the Chinese community. Tart died from pleurisy almost a year later, in July 1903, at his Ashfield home. More than 1,500 attended his funeral.

 

While the Glasshouse Shopping Centre and its carpark now stands on the site of the former Loong Shan, you can still 'visit' Quong Tart in the suburb of Ashfield, where he lived and died. His mansion has been turned into an aged care facility specialising in Chinese seniors and a monument to him has been erected in Hercules Street, outside the railway station. I pass it sometimes, when I go to get bubble tea across the road.

Mei Quong Tart in the Loong Shan tearooms.

Photo credit: Tart McEvoy papers (State Library of NSW)

HEALTH NEWS: Does drinking tea lower the risk of glaucoma?

Competition increases the profile of tea

Tania Stacey on why the AUSTCS Education working group decided to pursue competition as an avenue to promote tea.

Education is an important tool to increase the tea addict’s awareness of tea quality, brands and the industry in general. Competition is another tool useful in creating an awareness, hype and general buzz for tea brewing and tealeaves.


Currently there are two tea brewing competitions in Australia: the World Tea Brewers Championship (WTBC) and the Tea Masters Cup. Both competitions are international and receive worldwide attention. It will be fantastic to watch these brewing competitions grow and provide Australian tea culture with much-needed achievements from a new generation of tea enthusiasts. 

 

A new leaf
The Royal Agricultural Society (RAS) has successfully run its Fine Food Awards (FFA) in each Australian state for more than 165 years. The RAS shows are among Australia’s largest community events. Many food and beverage categories have been proactive and have built credible individual profiles that draw international attention, including coffee with MICE (Melbourne International Coffee Expo) as part of the RAS Victoria program.

 

FFA has an established popular profile with both general consumers and foodies. Creating a separate category award for tea allows us to build on the FFA profile. Independent awards without the established profile do not carry the same value in the foodie world.

 

As stated earlier this year, RAS Tasmania will be the first to introduce tea as an FFA category. We will provide further details on entries when the time arrives, otherwise just watch the RAST website for updates. 

The Melbourne International Coffee Expo is a successful spin-off from RAS Victoria and shows how tea might be able to increase its profile through awards.

Photo credit: Bluestone Lane

CORRESPONDENCE
Our last newsletter profiling The Bushells Building 'Switch to tea' sign started quite a few conversations with people (many of whom don't live in Sydney!) thanking us for sharing the history of the building and the Bushell family.

 

We were also touched to receive correspondence from Clayton Pine, who used to work in the building:

 

I worked in that Bushells building from March 18th 1974 until we moved to Concord in late 1975. We were forced out by the State Government as part of the classifying and restoration of The Rocks area. The building remained derelict for 20 years after we left. We took the old tea room benches out to Concord and restored them.

 

The window seen to the right of the sign is where we would play table tennis at lunchtime. My office, The Tea Room, is diagonally on the opposite side of the building on the top floor. It is still there, not so different to the original days less the tasting benches.

 

The Sydney Rocks was a bustling industrial area in those days with a smattering of residential including a lot of government housing. Most of the Bushells staff lived in The Rocks so they were not happy when they had to travel to Concord for work. As they were also pushed out of their heritage-listed government houses, many were re-house in the 'brutalist style' apartment block, The Sirius Building, next to the Harbour Bridge.

 

There are many stories associated with Bushells and other tea companies in Australia, and I have had the fortune to be associated with many of them and to have met the owners and characters who ran them.

[abridged for length]

Upcoming events

 

7 February: The Uncommon Feast, Sydney

10 February: Kohli Tea Emporium, Bowral

10 February – 4 March: BrisAsia Festival, Brisbane

13 February: Shrove Tuesday pancakes and tea, Sydney

18 February: Inala Lunchbox Food Festival, Brisbane

 

Do you have an event to promote? Let events liaison Kym Cooper know!

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