Answer Your Surf Cat’s Questions * A Green Room of One’s Own

Tomorrow is “Answer your (surf) cat’s questions day,” which got me to thinkin’ what all is a question that an unsuspecting surfer might ask ?? First to mind is the question that doesn’t elicit a response in like, “where do you surf a south wind on,” or “where’d you surf this morning,” as oft that is local info that is not always so readily and willingly shared (Newbies and the Bay would suffice if truth be told).

The per usual queries are something like, “how big a wave have you surfed, how long have you surfed for,” or the rote query such as “have you surfed the North Shore, been to Bali, the Mentawais and/or et al.” Or my perhaps atypical fave, “what water temp do you guys start wearing booties around here ??”

Midwinter Iceland, 'bout four hours o' light, with snowfall and wind chill (well) below freezing * Ian Battrick going solo save for the near field of bergs.  photo Tim Nunn * courtesy of the Inertia.

The low point for myself, was working all day and rushing to get home as the swell of a lifetime was pounding our coast, and all I could gasp was, “where’s my 7’11” Cort Gion ?? !!” Turns out my “bro” had made an executive decision and taken it for a surf that morning, of which by the time I got down to the cliffs and found out just the such, he had fresh fetched it off the rocks, newly gashed and gored for me.

Also recall that once upon a time that a bunch of us beach volleyball buddies made it over to Ibiza, before a friend and I jumped on a boat to Barcelona, then an overnite scrunch of a train ride to San Sebastian, and then a rental car to Lacanau, before a return trip to Hossegor, and whereat we reran into our surfing comrades “fresh” from the Mediterranean. From there Adam took up for Paris, and some of the others had to get back to the States for work, and as before long the crowd had dwindled down to just me and “Senor Porque,” a name dubbed him by the local felines, as he was little short of the incessant questionnaire. The two of us had a go of Mundaka, Santander and finally to Peniche and Supertubes. We had a beautiful pensione with double French doors everywhere, and I made the executive decision to sleep, for about three days straight, save to get up for a meal or coupla few.

SoWest Euro * Ibiza, Barcelona, San Sebastian, Lacanau, Hossegor/Biarritz, Mundaka, Santander, Peniche * map photo courtesy of overthedune.com

We had slept ‘bout two hours/night on Ibiza, then about 14/15 hours/night at my friend’s in Lacanau, and I was (still) completely bush. And true to his moniker my copilot peppered me with preguntas pretty much the entire duration of the trip, and as I am a believer that everyone needs to be seen and heard, I did my best, albeit am sure at some point I near gave up in attempting to answer that (surf) cat’s questions.

‘Tis also a (green) “Room of One’s Own Day” come this Friday, which is another rather inimitable element to the surf rota. For myself I recall my first brush with the barrell, getting skinny thru a Black’s Beach shaft, and where it seemed to have gotten dimmer for a bit, and then light again, albeit I was never sure if I had gotten full coverage or not. And ditto while ducking under a Backdoor lip and then quick kicking out before the thing closed out into Off the Wall, and hearing a random hoot or coupla few (think maybe my shorts slipped off my hips a bit ?) from the beach. Was that for me, and was that a barrel or not ?? My experience is that a lotta times just when you think you’ve got the magic carpet ride, that’s when it gets pulled right out from under your feet, courtesy of the unannounced boil and/or low tide suck out. And then there’s plenty of times when the pic looks good, but the guy never makes it out. Personally have never been much of a tube rider, albeit few things feel better in surfing.

green room * three of waves

The trinity of surfer, wave and mother ocean is the “whole” experience. In relationship with the wave, the probability is in your favor that you will touch upon her “G” spot, and ultimate secret chamber, as “only a surfer knows the feeling.” This timeless moment of truth “tastes sweet,” and is the closest thing to the Holy Grail in surfing. In harmony, joy envelops you, and you are at peace. “At-one-ment” comes with a good view and gives you “reason to pause and say grace.” In the womb of the mother, rebirth is at hand as she spits you out from her “emerald green, whirling cathedral” of fertility. As reward for the devoted, this “harmony of breath and spirit” is seminal breath and life force, an intimate moment that forges intimate relationship between surfer, wave and our mother ocean. We have been touched. Her luminous room is of an “abundant happiness.” Our unforgettable joy ride has left us forever under the sign of her “sacred hoop.” Mentally keen and with strong focus, we feel good inside. We exude a quiet confidence, in tune, and happy from a most romantic and sensual experience. She leaves us empty but full, and our “supernatural experience” carries the day. The smooth green harvest is of lasting memory, as “I had the oddest feeling that the light around me had changed, and that time had slowed.”

Packie Chan by John Olvey * acrylic on canvas

We are yearning to be in relationship. The “hole in the wave gang” wants nothing more in life than to enter, time and again, the “time warp” of the “dry tube.” We are “the interior surfer,” seeking union of matter and spirit. Our all seeing eye, and hence peacock of a surfer is watchful in harvest, as under her spell and in trance, he knows it best to still maintain emotional balance and stability, as we are oft yet to face the uncertainty of the wave, which is again easier said than done. One who is of “poor judgment of wave or character has cause for being upended or dumped.” If in too deep, overindulgence has price to be paid. If we are careless or take our ride too lightly, our wave of choice can soon become less than charitable, and no longer keeps its promise. Pleasure turns to pain and we become untrusting. Thinking that maybe things were too good to be true, we fall off and become a glutton for punishment. He who lacks faith soon can no longer find his rhythm, and becomes false prophet. Once cavalier, we may now feel undeserving, just waiting to be spit out. Personal effort vanishes in light of our impiety.

the Green Door by Remi Bertoche

Like attracts like. You reap what you sow. Be sensual and spiritual with “Ms. Love Joy.” She restores confidence, and is a well of inspiration. Be grateful for her green room. Her “open door” holds both “the Lady and the Tiger.” Keep your emotional composure, and don’t be afraid to use your intuition. “Time stops,” as she gives positive pause to your cause, and with pleasurable effect. Her archway is symbolic gateway within. She is “harmonious direction.” Your emotional fulfillment comes from an “inner knowing,” and results in a “newfound inner stability.” Unplugged, you are now a “reborn again.” Be encouraging to others. Be alert to the opportunity to “bring your healing presence into our world.” Your healing experience helps open our feminine side. You are more attractive to us without “the strut.” Celebrate the “happier life.” Live clean and green. One who knows his purpose and place is prosperous. Preparedness and training pay off. If your “aim is true,” you will remain in the loop of her sacred hoop.

Green room by Ichiro Tsutsui