comp surfing * pop surf culture * surf star Gonna go out on the proverbial limb here, as in full disclosure and in the interests of transparency, as there is a reason for the last two posts and now this one to follow. Had been reading about Aghartha, and of the “observations” of the “peoples” of our hollow earth, and wondered what three related things might Surfrider (and oneself) best promote in the interests of a better Water Planet and peoples ?? |
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The three things that came up for me were to address animals in captivity, to be vegetarian/vegan, and to bring competitive and pro surfing to a close. And as you previously/perhaps read, am good with the (preferred) vegetarian/vegan thing, and to close down the marine parks and zoos and the such, albeit the end of competitive/pro surfing as we know it is not second nature for at least myself, as again in full disclosure mode, I sorta dig pro surfing and def dig watching pro surfers surf. They’re just really good. And that said, my open space mind, also is def in favor of the cooperative approach rather than the competitive model. According to (none other than) Sigmund Freud, “competition is the royal road to success.” However his is not a universal nor consensus take on things, as others might suggest that rather than (competition) bringing out the beast in us, cooperation rather brings out the best in us. I recall taking a Soul Mandala painting class from Paul Heussenstamm (@esalen once upon a time), and where he shared the secret to good art was to paint in groups. According to some, peoples learn best when working together as opposed to being taught to be silent and kept apart (from the whole), as that is what teachers are currently taught to do, and which indirectly fosters competition. Cooperation is said to increase creativity, and leaves participants with a greater sense of self esteem and community. People are reportedly found better, not only psychologically but physically healthier as well. With competition I always have this gnawing feeling of being up against it, which of course is not so healthy, and as opposed to cooperation which begets a natural high and the residual of calmness. The downside to (any excess of) cooperation is that it may foster the yes man/ma’am syndrome, group think and an inappropriate bent toward conformity. The secrets to making cooperation work is to make time for things, to take the time to find consensus, to have shared or no leadership, and to reciprocate and share of your information, as opposed to shrouding things and keeping them close to your vest. The exchange of resources fosters the sense of a shared purpose in life and is a feelgood habit. In moving from dogma to dharma we help move the needle away from competition and more toward cooperation, and stop living (and dying) based on whether we gain approval (or not) from others. The question for us as surfers is, has (competitive) surfing lost its soul ?? Is the intensity of pro surfing less about how much push the wave has, and more about how much I can push back in terms of speed and maneuver ?? Has pro surfing produced a more mechanical and/or calculating (contest) surfer, as opposed to (free) surfing in love and joy ?? Is there an overemphasis on strategy and the thought process as opposed to the intuitive surfer who intuits his way and surrenders to the (ocean) divine ?? |
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Does the surfer bring harmony from (whitewater) chaos or do we harbor an “el sluggo” consciousness to wit, and go amper and aggro all the way to the 2020 Olympics ?? Who gains influence on the competitive surfer ?? Is there such a thing as the unsurfer, or do we all fall in with the Volcomites and Billabongers of the (surfing) world ?? Just what is it good for ?? |
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By some accounts, surfing is not a sport. To be a surfer is to be in harmony with the wave and to know at one ment with the ocean divine. Surfing is cleansing and healing. Negative ions from breaking waves are purifying, and whereas when you bring expectations and judgment into the mix, you beget fears of inadequacy and rejection, and rather than bliss, we lose out on the essence of the sport, the feeling. |
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The 2018 WSL (World Surfing League) is coming to a close and on its second to last leg in Western Europe as we speak, with this week the Quiksilver Pro in France and then the MEO Rip Curl Pro in Portugal later this month, and to be followed by its finale, the Billabong Pipe Masters (in memory of Andy Irons) in Hawaii. The women are at it too (and will get equal WSL pay starting next year 2019 !) with the Roxy Pro in France and then the Maui Women’s Pro held at Honolua Bay to close the year. |
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And again, gotta say that I do enjoy watching and following professional sports. And that doesn’t just include watching pro surfing videos and contests, as again in full disclosure, am a not so closet NFL (and sometimes NBA) draft junkie, and have to say it’s pretty fun running into and/or across these guys. |
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Again to wit and to emphasize just how ingrained pro surfing is into our pop surf culture, recall the late seventies at Sunset for the Smirnoff and watching Reno Abellira seemingly punch the lip at the bottom of his drop to somehow miraculously reemerge after being shrouded by the descending West peak, and then again sitting at Vland with a local friend there and watching Buttons backdoor a seemingly endless and prolly unmakeable tube, and after my friend turned his head away, not thinking anyone could possibly come out, and even tho I assured him it was Buttons and anything but impossible given his repertoire, and from which he did reappear. There was Bolton Colburn firefly surfing Black’s, and Larry Blair doing scissor off the lips during the Pipe prelims/warmups, along with Buttons (Kaluhiokalani) and Mark Liddell at Kaisers every afternoon, and the first woman that was as good or better than eye, Lynn Boyer. |
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Dane Kealoha in the eye of Don King @Backdoor * photo Steve Russell |
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Come the early eighties I recall a maxed out Newbies dawn patrol with Shaun Tomson, Eggers and Rusty Priesendorfer all racing roaring offshores, dredging across the inside ledge. The mid eighties had Curren at OTW (Off the Wall) with Jack (daRippa) Lindholm as the only ones out, knifing thru closeout barrels while a near zillion of us angled our way thru the masses at epic/maxed out (first reef) Pipe. There was Bradshaw snaking Sarlo one morning at Sunset, “good morning Allen.” And sitting inside watching Bruce Raymond ensconsed four wide at Waimea, with the biggest widemouth ever seen on drop in. Mark Foo laughing as I was hammered at Sunset Xmas day by a triple overhead plus set, going Jacques Cousteau for a three wave beatdown asunder the West peak. And then there was Dane (Kealoha) at Backdoor. Enough said. |
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The late eighties spelled the Op Pro with Occy and Curren, with Machado on turbo overdrive surfing all over San O, and Slater in San Clemente, experimenting with “where am I” backwards aerials at Trestles. |
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For the early nineties I made it to Hossegor high tide with friend Adam Cherry, and with whom I trudged ‘bout a mile down the beach to the lone peak, only to find Marty Thomas and Gerlach as the two Yank rippers, and soon to be joined by the likes of Jeff Booth, Occy, Derek Hynd and Ho. And ‘twas Maui in the mid nineties, face 2 face with Ralph Lauren/Vogue supermodel Buzzy Kerbox at the local Paia café, with David Kalama and his pops in tow in Haiku, and with Laird longboarding backwards at oversized Ho’okipa, laughing the whole way thru, and whilst we of course were paying rapt attention. |
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The early 00’s was (courtesy of the Godfather and) on Ke Nui with my friend’s mom (Karuna) who had no idea whose (super olde skool) truck was out blocking the road, and even after Jack (Johnson) popped out to say sorry and that he’d be right (back) out to move it. Then down the street at low tide Rocky Rights there was first Pancho Sullivan, then Derek Ho, pulling off miraculous/ridiculous maneuver after another, skimming over boils and liquid potholes, and with no one else out, and for good reason. And ditto for the Surf Ranch recap as was researching out this post, as can’t say it wasn’t of intrigue and some enjoyment watching these guys surf the wave machine there. Pro surfing ?? Take it or leave it ?? Eye don’t want to minimize the query here, as recall my friend (and ex gang leader) Duke/Eric Montenegro sharing of how things began with just sports teams and games from assorted Central American countries in Central Los Angeles, and which eventually morphed into (deadly) street gangs, according to his story. And again as tour guide, and even tho my group or members thereof may have gone to the local marine park and/or zoo, or a rodeo or the like, I never opted in. And while I have eaten and do eat meat, and do own leather shoes, I am keen for the hemp/og cotton program and og foodstuffs. And surfrider/soul surfer. What’s not to like ?? But giving up (on) pro surfing. Perhaps ‘tis the right thing to do, albeit easier said than done. What would Gerry Lopez/Wayne Lynch do ?? What would/will you do ?? |
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Surfers are reflections of our collective soul and every surfer an enlightened surf star, oftentimes unbeknownst to themselves. The supernatural surfer makes every wave and every day count. We get our glow on from surfing. Life as a surfabout elicits hoots as waves and girls, sex and tube rides, and love and surfing play host to our itinerant surfer at the local surfarama. Surf stardom is the arena of the hydro-acrobat with her waterborne ballet set to our rockabilly rhythm and blues surf music. Riding a wave of popularity she surfs with an ethereal grace and an innate sense of wave knowledge. Touchstone surfing is the hallmark of our bellwether surfer. As surf prodigy within our surfing progeny, she is an inveterate surf flick icon. First on the scene as “Gidget,” our “surf doll” is now in “lean and ready surfing condition.” The surf star is every man’s surfer. |
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Hers is an irresistible attraction, his more of a subtle, understated magnetism. We are drawn to her endless radiance as she dazzles us with her luminous grace and beauty. It’s his aplomb that generates the mystique. She shines and sparkles and opens us up to infinity. He glistens upon the wave and makes it look easy, if not effortless. We imagine her as we please, as there is much more to her than meets the eye. His natural ray is our surf salvation. She holds out promise for us. He is shapeshifter and always there for us. Her soft nurturing light is a beacon for others, as her tranquility warms our soul and touches our inner self. His vernacular sets the tone as he feels a responsibility to entertain consciousness. She is our ambassador unto the Aquarian Age. His peacefulness inspires us. Left with a sense of awe and wonder, we are at peace in their company. |
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The surf star gives us the sense that we are part of something bigger than ourselves. We gain insights from the greater context. The surf star brings the cosmos closer, unveiling the known from the unknown, and the seen from the unseen. From this newness we gain clarity on our path, which prods us on our journey. Faith and hope. Hope and joy. The surf star gives us hope. |
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Others however are infatuated with your fame and acclaim and become hooked on you. Jet set surfers are seen as sultans of speed and masters of the universe. You are immortal, our surfer superior. As teen idol, you are the untouchable. The surf star oozes cool. Self esteem rises, but like wax, the surf star is susceptible to meltdown. You may yearn to be an ordinary mortal and want for a return to soul, but you are now a marked man. Selling your soul for stars at Kodak reef leaves you overwhelmed by expectations and held to standards where you can no longer be ordinary. You are used to influence, but when used as surfing’s glam boy, you can lose your glitter. Stardom interferes with your development as a human being. Stardom is an illusion. Dim and dimmer, a star gives us a distant, or even detached perspective. We are lost in the cosmos, spaced out on stardust, feeling cold and removed. We are no longer star quality. |
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Surfing is not a part time job. Be a surf designer - design your life around surfing. Dedication will rise to the top. Use your imagination. Stretch your body, stretch your mind. Gaze upwards. Wish upon a star. Feel small. “Twinkle, twinkle, little star.” Enlightenment beckons. Latch on to your dreams. They came true for our surf star. By helping others reach for their own star, you will reach your own. Be generous. Offer a positive, life-affirming image. Your example shows others their starlight. Be of service. Be the star that you are. Reveal other's potential. You can be helpful. Group with other stars and configure. Set the stage for others. It will lift you to new heights. Be far reaching. People will listen. Speak consciously and with clarity. Be thoughtful. You reflect of life. You’re beautiful. Use your beauty in helping others find their own. You are engaged. Others are drawn to your light. Illuminate with your soft light and gentle compassion. Others will be regenerated and healed. You have found your place. Be the lighthouse for others who are stuck riding out storms. Be a star guide. Give direction and guide others. Be propitious and an affirmation for others. Your star shines. Know your own light. Use it to shine on all endeavors. Starlight and starbright, give of your spirit. It is our essence. From starfish to starmaiden, everyone and everything, is a star. Be grateful for our heaven on earth. |
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