SIMON'S FOOD SCHOOL:
Stuff You Didn't Know You Didn't Know About Food
My lovely wife and I just returned from a life changing trip to Tanzania, Africa.
Our journey began with our good friends at Convoy of Hope as we joined them in the small but bustling city of Arusha to see their untiring efforts to end child hunger and empower local women as entrepreneurs. We left inspired by their efforts and even more determined to work with them even more closely in 2017.
Then, we moved on for a few days of vacation on the small island of Zanzibar, which in a very different way had just as much impact on me, only this time, in a culinary sense. Zanzibar has a fascinating history, including being colonized by many different nations over the centuries, before gaining its independence from Great Britain in 1963 and joining with Tanganyika to unify as the country of Tanzania in 1964.
While much of the interest in occupying the island over the centuries was because of its strategic military significance, another more interesting reason for me was its importance to the spice trade, where it had a pivotal place not only in the sale and distribution of these expensive commercial goods, but also provided the ideal conditions in which to grow a wide variety of spices. While we now take the availability of these spices for granted, it’s worth remembering that, going back almost as far as history has been recorded, items such as peppercorns, nutmeg, mace, ginger and others have been of huge importance commercially and were so valuable that stock markets were created to sell them and wars were often fought over the lands where they were able to grow in abundance.
We took the opportunity during our stay to visit one of the many spice plantations that litter the island, a 100 acre community farm where tours were given to supplement the money raised by selling the crops. The particular farm we visited grew over 100 varieties of fruits, herbs and spices and during our tour, we were able to sample many of them. The impact on my palate was immediate and unforgettable. While the taste of everything we tried was familiar to me, sampling fiery fresh ginger pulled from the ground, or plump spicy green peppercorns that burned in our mouths for minutes after eating them, was a very different from sampling the dried and withered versions of the same that are available back in the United States. Most interesting of all was when our guide plucked a small round pear like fruit from a bush and cut it in half to reveal a marble sized nutmeg seed covered in the lacy coating of mace. This was the first time I had seen these two spices in their natural pre-dried state and it was hard to imagine, looking at them and the unassuming bush from which they had been harvested, that these were once the single most expensive food ingredients on earth.
Nutmeg, for example was once so valued that in the 18th Century rich young men would wear neck chains to hold their precious spices as a conspicuous sign of their wealth, and the sale of nutmeg and mace was of such value to a nation’s economy that in the mid 1800’s the British and Dutch fought a four-year long war over the tiny nutmeg growing island of Ran. In one of the great culinary “who knew?” stories of all time, the end of that war resulted in the British gaining ownership of another small much less important island which they renamed “Manhattan.”
My experiences in Zanzibar certainly changed the way that I think about the spices I use in my cooking, and I hope that reading about them will make you curious to delve into their history even more the next time you reach into your kitchen cabinets.